Off To Italy!  | July 5, 2012

It is a beautiful sunny day here in Oregon as I buzz around getting all the last minute things done for this trip. It doesn’t seem possible that it is finally here, after the months of planning.
Due to my humanities background, Italy has long been one of the “vacation” places I have wanted to visit. A dear friend of my cousin and also a friend of mine, planned this trip about a year ago to celebrate a significant birthday for her. The first week I will spend with her and a few others touring and seeing some of the great artistic sites of Italy. Dana has lived in Italy for some years and speaks the language so she is the perfect travel buddy. Then the next week we will be at a villa up in a little town called Levanto, right on the water! Yes, it seems too good to be true, and I keep pinching myself.
I am off at 8 tomorrow morning with the only regret that I will miss the birth of my grandson, Liam. He will arrive soon after my departure. Sigh . . .                                                                                                                          So I will take this bucket list trip, traveling with some of my favorite people in the world, and return to the joy of a new life.  That will make the coming home so worthwhile!

Rome – First Impressions  | July 7, 2012

Rome – day 1 sorta
I have been in Rome for about 2 and a half hours, (not counting airport time) and have already seen nuns in habits, a tarot card reader, a saxophone player, two kids getting to know each other’s tonsils, numerous motor scooters, a couple of people talking loudly and waving hands(!) and a large wall that looks rather ruinish but who knows. Not bad!  I also got myself from the airport to the train into town and then walked from the train station to the hotel – a little way with several turns and did not get lost!  Major accomplishment. Actually the accomplishment is not getting hit as one crosses the streets – typical crazy traffic. She who hesitates is lost. Right now I am having lunch at an outdoor cafe – just simple. And other than feeling a bit like the Pillsbury doughboy- water retention – the travel piece went flawlessly.  Luggage is here and I’ve had a shower so I am ready to go.  I’m not sleepy at the moment, but I’m sure it will hit soon. The city is nosy and crowded and busy and great. I’m sure I am passing by something famous but just don’t know what it is!  At least it isn’t the Coliseum – that I could figure out.  The rest of the Art Week women will arrive later this afternoon. I am the advance team. The weather is quite warm but lovely in the shade, with a bit of a breeze.What a blessing to be here. Love to all

Begin the Day at St Peter’s – End With Gelato | July 8, 2012

The women arrived all safe and sound – a bit about my travel companions. Dana is our wonderful leader and the person who set up this incredible trip. She is a dear friend of my cousin, Meredith’s and due to frequent trips back to Ipswich, is now a dear friend of mine. The other 4 are all very young women – I’m between mom and grandmom age with them. One is Abi, Dana’s daughter, who just graduated high school. The other 3 are family friends of theirs, two in college and one just out. They are fun and bring great energy to the trip.
After they arrived and tided up, we walked to a lovely ristorante for dinner – 2 hours of pizza, antipasti and wine. And a barking black dachshund! Attie will appreciate that as we have a neighbor dog at home just like that who drives us crazy! Here it was funny.
Back to the Hotel Napoleon for early bed and a great night’s sleep. A generous breakfast at the hotel and onto the Metro, which is right outside the hotel door, and off to St Peter’s for Mass – yes – really. Words will be totally inadequate but that never stopped me. We walked through some columns and burst out into St Peter’s Square. Yes, I have seen it in pictures many, many times but the experience trumps any picture. Glaringly white in the hot sun, majestic with all the saints watching over us from their lofty perches. We got into the long line, which moved quickly, and went into the cathedral for Mass, after safely covering our offensive shoulders! We had seats and listened to the Latin words, almost as ancient as this city. We sat by the 7 story high altar piece by Bernini. Not catching much, left plenty of time to ogle the carved and painted ceiling, the alcoves with saints, the paintings high on the walls, (we had Matthew, Mark, Luke, and John looking out over us and as this was St Peter’s, I had all my sons represented) the busts of former popes, and the tiled floor. The space is vast with side “chapels” (larger than most American churches) all around. On the way out, we paused, in awe, at Michelangelo’s Pieta, liberated from its piece of marble when he was 24. Truly living stone.
Last Sunday I heard son Peter preach and this Sunday I spent with St Peter – blessings abound!
After the service and some poking around, we hopped a bus and tram and headed to an outdoor market – the “mall” for the locals. The girls were interested in shopping. Dana and I found little to peak our interest so we went to a little cafe, out of the sun, and had lunch and cappuccino. It is quite hot but just the price of doing business. At about 3 we headed back to the hotel. However, on the way we passed the Pantheon so of course stopped and toured that – one of the oldest buildings in Rome – Raphael is buried there.
We continued through narrow cobbled streets and found a place for gelato! I think that will be a daily thing. Given the walking and the sweating, I have decided that the effort in just eating the gelato more than offsets the calories. (The Trip of Wishful Thinking!)
On our way back to the Metro, we passed the Coliseum – back tomorrow.
This is a trip of superlatives, but we are also passing where so many have gone before.
It is high tourist season so we are a few among many.
Back to the hotel for the second shower of the day and a change of clothes – then off to the Spanish Steps, dinner, Trevi Fountain, and more gelato. A typical day all around!
I would like to wax eloquent about all of this but we are back at the hotel, I am pooped, need another shower and am ready to head to bed.
More tomorrow.
Kids, I bought you all I Heart Rome T- shirts today. I sure hope you all enjoy them.
Love to all

All Roads Lead to Rome | July 9, 2012

Monday in Rome!  Today we saw so many incredible things, but they are all overshadowed by the birth of Liam Peter Sherman!!  He is here and healthy and strong, at 8 pounds 6 ounces and lots of dark hair like his sister.  Carin had a good and fairly short labor so blessings abound!

In other news, another hot, muggy day dawned in Rome.  However, we had things to see and places to go so that did not deter us!  Headed to the Metro – much the same in any large city and so helpful for getting around.  We headed back to the Vatican and met our guide for the day.  Dana had arranged this ahead of time so we had our tickets and had the immense pleasure of walking by huge, long lines of hot people and headed into the Vatican Museums. Our guide was a lovely young Roman woman and very skilled, knowledgable, and good company. We got great information and saw many splendid things but the highlight, of course, was the Sistine Chapel.  It is breathtaking to finally seeing after so many pictures and articles about it.  Photography is forbidden and supposed, no talking.  Well, the place was packed.  Literally wall to wall people and the guards had to repeated ask people to be quiet.  It was distracting and a bit disappointing but the time was still so intense and really holy.  At that point, we were all cooking and needed some food so we found a quick little pizza shop with about a dozen choices and grabbed one and sat on benches, in the shade! for lunch.  It felt so good to put my feet up!  Then we headed over to the Coliseum, bought tickets, and headed in.  Again, even though I have seen many pictures and all, the actual experience was better.  It is a place of ghosts and stories.  I have thought some about Rome.  It is such a unique city in Europe.  At the time of Christ, it was already a major metropolis, with beautiful buildings, organized government, an aqueduct system still in use today, roads, art and much that has survived to this day.  After the Coliseum, we walked through the ancient Forum area.  Again, it would have been wonderful to have more time in both places but our time with our guide was limited and we were out in the blazing sun.  Still, enormously worthwhile.  Then back to our hotel for clean up and then out to a beautiful section of town for some strolling and an incredible dinner in a piazza with a frescoed church and a large fountain.  A perfect last evening in Rome, especially with the birth of a new grandson!  Almost too many blessings for one day!  I had been having trouble getting texts and calls and dear Attie called Verizon and sorted it all just in time for Carin entering the hospital.  I kept up with them and ended my day with a Skype introduction to Liam, who is quite perfect in every particular.  We leave Rome in the morning.

Orvieto and Assisi | July 1o, 2012

Today we left Rome.  Dana had arranged a van for us so we were picked up at 9 and on our way. Quite the way to travel!  We swung around the Coliseum on the way out of town so that was lovely.  Great air conditioning didn’t hurt either.   Once out of the city, we drove through countryside with olive groves, a few vineyards and fields of sunflowers. A drive of about 1.5 hours took as to the medieval town of Orvieto.  Completely lovely – the little cobbled piazzas, narrow streets with stone shops and houses, tile roofs, flower filled window baskets – in other words, perfect. We traveled from ancient Roman times to the Middle Ages in one quick trip!  However, the influence and remnants of the Romans are everywhere.  We only stayed here about 2 hours but wandered, shopped and ate.  And of course I am still glowing over Liam’s birth!  I stop every little bit and look at pictures of him.  Then back into our lovely van and off to Assisi.  About the same distance and we were there. Again – a walled medieval city on a hillside with views over the valleys and hills around.  Completely perfect. I love the ancient worked stone – much of it going back to the Romans.  After unloading and checking into our hotel, which is filled with paintings done by the local painter, Norberto – love his work, we had an orientation talk.  Dana had arranged for an ex pat to give us the local scoop.  Anne was full of information and very helpful.  However, she is definitely the local character and proud of it.  She runs many tours around here, and it was mentioned frequently that she would be happy to take us around the next day. However, Dana is as knowledgeable about the Basilica of St Francis as Anne is, and we like Dana much better!  Still great info and fun. We then headed out to wander and find some place to eat – always a delightful task.  It was still quite hot here but shade spots everywhere and a breeze so that made all the difference.  Dinner started a little after 7 and we didn’t head back to the hotel until 10:30. So great!  I haven’t mentioned the amazing project Dana set before us.  Our first night in Rome she handed us each a small book of heavy grade art paper.  That night, she pulled out colored pencils and asked us to choose two colors we had seen that day, get their Italian names and describe, or write or whatever about them.  Next night we sat at the fountain at the base of the Spanish Steps and drew patterns from architectural details around the square. Each night she has had something for that and it adds so much to the experience.  I cannot sing her praises highly enough – the thought and intentionality she has put into this trip is incredible!  I am the so very grateful recipient.  So last night, at dinner, we drank our wine, ate our bread and pasta and drew and made some fun lists and I showed around my latest picture of Liam. They are all very patient with me as I brag about my grands!  My grandma eyes are on everywhere for pictures and little things for them.  A side note – even though Benedict is the current pope, John Paul II is still so revered and there are more pictures and medals and all of him than Benedict.  A bobble head John Paul anyone?  This whole trip is so full of pinch me moments, it will take months to process it all but I am absolutely reveling in it and am so grateful to God for this opportunity.I am really enjoying the young girls too.  Marianna is an adopted child from Hungary and particularly enjoyable.  She is just fun and someone after my own heart. I love getting more “family” in my life and she is moving into that category.  After two weeks, she will be firmly there.  Ciao until tomorrow.

Searching for St Francis | July 11, 2012

One of the things our guide recommended to us yesterday was to rise early, before the heat of the day, and walk (read steady serious elevation gain) to the upper part of town which is where the Romans hung out and the old fortress is there.  Also it is a neighborhood now so quiet and no shops.  A few of us took the advice, rose at 6, and headed out soon after.  It was a cloudless cool morning, with a slight breeze.  I was able to walk and not sweat, or glow as an old PE teacher used to call it. We climbed up, passing little alleys with flower pots and window boxes (there is a window box competition in June!) up steep flights of stairs.  The stone is ancient, the roads cobbled, and the views spectacular – flights of tiled roofs and church towers and domes or the valley spread out below with rows of cyprus trees which seem so Italian to me.  A tonsured monk passed us on the way up and we hoped we weren’t going to disturb his reverie on top, but then he took out a camera and snapped away so he is a pilgrim too. Except for the monk and the occasional worker, it was just us!  Delicious to be away from the crowds of Rome and to have quiet.  The only sounds were bells ringing in the various churches – a perfect benediction for the early morning.  Heading down, we stopped for cappuccino and a croissant, in a shop the Mafia uses to launder money we were told after the fact!  Thank you very much!  Back to the hotel for more breakfast and showers and then off to do reverence at the Basilica of St Francis.  It is really two cathedrals – the lower started immediately after the death of Francis in 1226. Then the other one was built on top of it in a grander style.  Both are vaulted but the lower one has very low ceilings while the upper one soars in normal Gothic style.  Giotto (and students) frescoes cover every surface except the floors and the small chamber where St Francis’ remains are honored.  That is an appropriately unadorned room, quite lovely in its simplicity.  The frescoes, though, are magnificent.  Most are still in good shape and tell stories from the Bible, primarily the life of Christ, and the story of St Francis and his life.  Thanks to a Rick Steves’  audio app, we had a guided tour.  It added so much as the stories were explained and one was told what to look for.  We ended our time reading St Francis’ Canticle of the Creatures together.  Dana continues to plan these lovely moments for us – such a blessing.  After lunch – insalata caprese is becoming my standard lunch meal – the girls headed to a swimming pool and Dana and I headed back to the hotel for a little R & R. Even though this is definitely an amazing vacation, we are packing a great deal in.  After a fairly quiet afternoon, we headed out to dinner.  We had a reservation at a private home which is just open to prearranged guests.  We ate in the backyard which is on the hillside, overlooking the fields below.  Another amazing view and place.  Then we had a 5 course meal – antipasti of bruschetta and cantaloupe and prosciutto, pasta with olives, green salad, grilled pork, and fresh peaches and rum soaked cherries in champagne.  Of course all of this was accompanied by plenty of wine and bread and the most flavorful olive oil ever!  What a day!  Tomorrow we head to Florence, but we will grab another early morning walk before hitting the road. Having a great trip but am missing the grands, especially wanting to meet Liam!  I will try to attach a couple of pictures.Love until tomorrow.

Assisi to Florence | July 12, 2012

I am sitting in a roof top wine bar at our hotel in Florence. The roofs of the city and the dome of The Duomo (to be redundant!) are out the window.  Not a bad way to spend the afternoon. Up again at 6 so we could walk the town again – views, quiet, ancient stone walls, bright red geraniums, terra cotta pots, secret alleys and staircases – the perfect way to start the day.  Then a cappuccino and pastry and back to the hotel to clean up and check out.  We reluctantly left the very magical town of Assisi to travel a couple of hours to Florence.  We left a small medieval hillside town for a busy Renaissance city.  It is a lovely city but a bit lacking in the charm factor – heavy on the impressive factor. We picked up a very dear friend of Dana’s, Sudy, from the airport and then headed to our hotel.  We are in the old section of town, right at the end of the Ponte Vecchio bridge.  The bridge is like London used to be, hundreds of years ago – lined with shops and living space above.  It goes over the River Arno. We quickly headed out, grabbing bruschetta and cold drinks to eat on the fly.  We headed through narrow streets where one has to hug the wall when a car comes flying by – the vehicles just assume one will move so they don’t significantly slow down.  We came out into a gorgeous piazza centered by The Duomo in all its pink, green, and cream glory.  However, that is for tomorrow.  All this was in the Piazza della Signoria where there are copies of many of the famous statues in town.  I then had a date with an old guy and waited two hours for it. He was located in The Accademia.  The others came with me and we stood in line, sometimes in sun, sometimes in shade with the occasional gelato break.  Then we finally got in, walked down a hall . . .  and there he was – on his pedestal.  David!  He is very beautiful and seems totally unembarrassed by all of the attention.  Obviously, David rules the place!  You would not believe the postcards, posters and undies that feature parts of his anatomy!  And, no, I will not buy any as souvenirs!  The Accademia is fairly small by museum standards.  Other works there are The Prisoners, which I found very powerful as they struggle to free themselves from their stone prisons.  There are also some minor paintings, but people really come to see David.   We then headed off in our own directions – some went shopping, some took naps, and I went to the roof for a glass of wine and a bite of cheese and dried meats.  It was very quiet so the waiter, Domenico, and I struck up a conversation.  He asked me what mood I was in so he could choose the right wine for me!  He is coming to the Boston area soon to go to school.  It is these fun little personal encounters which makes travel so memorable.  Supper was inside for a change – a subterranean cellar with low vaulted brick ceiling and lovely food!  Fabulous food is a constant. I have not figured out how to attach pics to the blog so sorry about that piece.  I don’t seem to be able to do it from the iPad.  Tomorrow will be a full day here in Florence – the Duomo in the morning and the Uffizi in the afternoon.  Love to all

wine notes for myself –
Castiglioni  Chianti 2010  Brunello di Montalcino  2005

Too Much Male Anatomy | July 13, 2012

Good morning from my rooftop again.  However, it is breakfast so no wine – just cappuccino.  We leave Florence today for Levanto with a stop in Pisa.  Internet will be a little sketchier there so communication may suffer a bit.  This will by needs be quick as we are on our way soon.  Yesterday started a bit early with a short walk over to The Duomo to climb up to the cupola – over 400 steps.  The climb wasn’t bad at all, just a bit claustrophobic at times but so worth it.  About half way up the walk brings one out into the dome of the cathedral so one can look down and see it all as well as look up to the beautiful ceiling and stained glass windows.   Then on to the top and a 360 view of Florence – breathtaking.  After suitable pics and all we headed down and sat in the lovely piazza for a while, just soaking it all in.  Then into the Baptistry, which had its roots in Roman times.  This is the building of the famous bronze doors by Ghiberti.  After some shopping and lunch and all, we met another excellent guide, Cynthia, who took as through the Uffizzi, another wonder of the world. This is the home of the famous Botticelli “Venus” among many other marvelous paintings and sculptures.  One of my favorite parts was a very long hall, windows on one side overlooking the Duomo and all, magnificent painted  ceilings and small portraits of Florentine citizens, as well as rows of sculptures.  This was the town of the Medicis and this was their own private gallery for many many years.  The last of the Medicis finally deeded it to the city in the 1700s.   The guide explained so much about the power plays that went on and how even statues had meaning in the struggle.  After the museum, we had a little time before dinner so I headed out on my own.  As I passed the loggia where people were seated on the steps, I heard them chuckling.  I assumed it was some street performer.  I was right but didn’t know that I was part of the performance!  He was following me and when I turned and saw him, he threw his arms out wide and gave me the Italian two cheek kiss. As he was a mime, I had white makeup on my cheeks. A little more nonsense, applause from the crowd and I went on my way.  A very funny little moment.We dressed for dinner and headed out for another meal on the town.  Another time, I will have to talk about the food here.   It deserves its own separate entry.  My cousin and her group were to join us for dinner but there was missed communication so they didn’t make it – very disappointing. Then home to bed.  I will send this off as we must be on our way.  Farewell Florence!

So This is Paradise | July 15, 2012

Catch up day – I didn’t write yesterday so here is the report.  We left Florence about 9, after breakfast on the rooftop with a view of The Duomo!  It still seems unreal to even write that.  We were off to Levanto!  Our driver, Elizabeta, is a Florentine and proud of it, so she has been fun to listen to. There is most definitely regional pride abounding. Our guide in the Uffizi, the day before, loved to share about the Florentine artists but was rather dismissive of artists from other places.  First stop was Pisa, as in leaning tower.  We were there only an hour and a half but it was enough.  All the sights are in this open piazza, the tower, the cathedral and the Baptistry, which is the typical set up.  It is rather disconcerting to look at the tower with a moving sky behind it – made me a bit dizzy.  A fun stop but almost in the check off sense.  Is that awful to say that?  We have covered so much ground this past week, I will need some weeks at home, with this journal and pics to process it all.  Grabbed lunch to have in the car and we were off to Levanto.  Half the drive is the rapid autostrade but then we hit windy mountainous almost one lane roads – my boys, think the road to Uncle Rick’s but paved.  We were almost in sight of Levanto when we had to turn around due to a washed out road – back over the twisty roads with more than one queasy stomach.  We then took another route and arrived in fine fashion, with all intact. I can barely describe where we are – it is too wonderful.  This is a small town hugging the coast of a mountainous bay.  Yellow/gold buildings with terra cotta tile roofs and the occasional turquoise awning.  Our villa is pink with green shutters just up from the promenade and the water.  The sound of the waves is a constant.  Unlike most places, we have a garden and lawn as this is the summer “home” for the larger estate further up the hill.  It is a vertical landscape.  The house has 7 bedrooms, 4 full baths, open spaces. The doors and windows are kept open all day and only closed at night for protection and privacy.  Cool tile floors, plastered walls, green and white striped awnings – really so beyond expectations!  The question, why me? keeps running through my head. I have my own precious little room on the second floor, with doors opening onto a tiny balcony, overlooking the sea!  Absolutely amazing!  I gleefully unpacked and made myself to home. Several of us donned bathing suits and headed to the water – my first time in the Mediterranean.  Think the blue of Hawaii or the Caribbean.  Dinner then on the loggia, at 8 – fresh salad – the tomatoes especially are fabulous here, a leek quiche the housekeeper had made for us, bread with cheese and roasted peppers, and of course wine. This is fairy tale stuff for me.We also have Internet at the house so I can stay in touch, which is so helpful to me.  The only blemish on this paradise is missing the family bits right now, especially my new little Liam, but I miss all my grands and want to kiss Elliott, who cut his arm badly a couple days ago.  He is good, but it was scary.  I also got back onto Facebook, just for this trip, so I can post pictures. That will happen later today.  I am hoping to have more time to be a bit more reflective now as our days will not be so packed with events.  I went to sleep with the breeze and the sound of waves.  Thank you Lord.

Lovely Levanto | July 15, 2012

I think the days will fall into a pattern here. Awake when we do – no alarms here!  Shower, dress, DIY breakfast, wander with whomever into town for a cappuccino or two – they are quite small after all. Get the groceries for the day.  Hit the beach for a bit. Clean up – lunch if one feels like it – maybe a nap. Afternoon gelato. Sit on the porch and watch the water.  Stroll the grounds. Then late dinner outside and go to sleep with the sound of the waves.  Isn’t that just amazing?!  If I were staying any longer, I would feel guilty and even as it is, I have to fight that a bit.  I know, all too well, the other side of this picture and can only be so humbly grateful for this trip. It really has been a quite perfect day.  All of the above were accomplished with joy and contentment and in a totally unhurried fashion. Such a gift.  Bare feet are the order of the day – the tile floors are actually a bit slippy in shoes so I am happy to paddle around unshod.  This place is truly magical – the unhurried pace and the beauty of it all.  And I am always so happy by the water.  The people I am with are also a gift.  We are a company of women and that makes things so relaxed and casual.  Although most of these women are new to me, the growing acquaintance has been a pleasure as each brings her own gifts and quirks to the mix.  This evening, after we had finished dinner outside (gnocchi with pesto, cantaloupe wrapped in prosciutto, breadsticks and wine) we all congregated in the living room, filling the overstuffed couches and chairs, worked on our books and chatted and laughed.  Tonight is the last night for two of the girls.  They catch a late train back to Rome.  They will be missed.   Then Tuesday more friends arrive, my dear Meredith being one of them.  I will continue to post pictures on Facebook.

Love

Two thoughts running through people’s heads – Observing me in my bathing suit – “Oh my gosh!  I hope I don’t look like that when I’m her age!”. (I am on the wrong side of that thought!)  Observing us on our loggia overlooking the promenade and the water –  “Oh my gosh!  Who gets to live in that amazing place overlooking the water?!” (and I get to be on the right side of that!)

Living the Dream | July 17, 2012

What a lovely day – of course that is the only kind there is over here.  I woke up before seven and the day was calling so I dressed and headed to the beach for an early morning walk.  The beach crew was out – literally manicuring the sand and raking up the bits of seaweed that had washed ashore during the night.  Tourism is taken seriously!I walked at the water’s edge – some spots were all small stones and as the water washed out again, the pebbles chattered together.  I walked out onto a small rock jetty, sat, and watched two fishermen haul in small silver fish at very regular intervals.  Very few people were out – just mainly the beach cleaners and older folks, walking the beach.After a while I went back to the house to get my money to head to town for morning cappuccino.  Dana was just up and joined me so we enjoyed a leisurely chat, drink, and pastry.  What a perfect way to start the day –  I will do this all my remaining mornings.  The other thing I love about the morning is that grandpas are out walking their very little grandchildren.  It is very bittersweet for me – the grandpas are so demonstrative and precious with their little ones, more so than the nonas even.  I have seen so many babies and little ones, that has been hard.  I am missing my grands and so anxious to meet precious Liam.  Later in the morning, I grabbed my air mattress (purchased earlier) and headed to the water to float – my heavenly thing.  Just as I got out of the water, Meredith and Rob, my dear cousins and friends, and some friends of their’s  arrived so that was wonderful. The afternoon was spent in their oohing and aahing  over this place.  A quick trip to town for gelato and errands.  All of our meals are outside and most of our time is spent there, which makes me so grateful.  The weather continues to be perfect – it all seems hardly real!  It is a time apart – a gift from Almighty God.  What delight He must have taken in all the creation process!  Dinner for 12 on the porch, at 8 or so, watching the sun set and enjoying excellent food and wine, of course!  After dark, we all sat on the loggia, overlooking the water, with views of the city lights and talked, with gratitude, about this place and our time in Italy.  Meredith and I think we should have next year’s Garfield reunion here!  Off to bed with strains of My Fair Lady music from a party across the way.  My heart is full and and oh so grateful.

Living Large | July 19, 2012

Living in paradise is so seductive!  It’s a bit like the land of the Lotus Eaters.  I just want to sit in little coffee shops and drink cappuccino and eat pastries, or sit on our loggia and read and watch the water, or float on the very salty Mediterranean and realize that this is “real” life too – but also a very special time apart and such a gift from God.  And to have the time here with such people – some I love so dearly and new friends who will always be so very important for themselves and having shared this time.  The support of friends is never to be underestimated – as bumps hit even in paradise.  I took a writing break yesterday – it was an uneventful day in the sense of many happenings but very eventful in quality.   A quick trip to the weekly flea market netted some gifts and a few new clothes – SO cheap!  If I ever come to Italy again, I will sell half my clothes at home, pack a couple of outfits and my undies and come here and start over.  At home, I don’t see many things I like but over here I could grab something from nearly every shop or stall!  Fortunately I have resisted MOST of the time.  A good bit of the day was spent on the beach or really floating in the water. My air mattress investment was a brilliant one.  And it will stay here and provide enjoyment for others, when I leave.

Meredith, Rob, Linda, and I fixed dinner last night so we shopped for the food and fixed a large tray of antipasti – meats, cheeses, olives, grapes and bread sticks, a huge green salad with umpteen kinds of lettuce, focaccia, and fish baked with tomatoes, capers, lemon.  Dessert was slices of fresh melon.  Lovely wine accompanied it all.  We left the table at 9:30, after watching the sun set behind the rocky promontory.  The sound of the waves accompanies everything. Although we have blue skies, beaches and sand and water, even the occasional palm tree but it is nothing like the tropical spots I’ve been to in Hawaii, Florida or southern California. Certainly the architecture is quite different, but I really can’t put my finger on it. It is the Mediterranean – its own world.

Today is much the same – town for cappuccino, beach time, lunch with Rob and Meredith, more beach and then tonight will be another great meal, this time made for us by the housekeeper of the estate.  Meredith and I shared a few quiet beach moments and left a bit of Paul – always very meaningful to me.

Tomorrow is my last full day here and it is Dana’s birthday – the reason for this amazing trip. We will go back to Vernazza and have a wonderful birthday dinner there with quite a crowd.  Last night’s dinner was for 11, tonight is 14, and tomorrow will include her Italian friends as well.  Very early Saturday morning I will hop (which is figurative as I now have 3 bags to haul) the train and head to Venice on my own.  A full day there and then the Sunday night train to Rome and fly out Monday morning.  Adventure complete.

Vernazza to Venice | July 21, 2012

Disclaimer – the “above” referred to below is unavailable and I am too pooped to fill it in right now.  More on that later.
This will be a running note.  The above was started yesterday and today, Saturday, I am sitting on the first of three trains on my way to Venice.  To finish yesterday – the four of us took the ferry and stopped for a bit at the first town, Montorosso.  A little more shopping – I am doing my best to help the Italian economy!  Then back on the ferry to Vernazza – where we had lunch – some excellent pizza.  A little about Vernazza.  It is a little town that crawls up the hillside between two rocky cliffs.  All the growing is done on the vertical.  They even have little train like carts that go up and down the cliff, to help with planting and harvesting – rather like a tiny funicular. Last fall there was a terrific rainstorm which dumped over 20 inches of rain in just a few hours.  The soil could not hold it so a massive mudslide came crashing through this village of about 500 filling the lower part of town with over 13 feet of mud and debris.  Of course all services were knocked out and a massive clean up began. Although one person died, it could have been much worse.  Now, just a few months later, except for a few repairs and the raw hillside, there is no sign of the destruction in the town.  The tiny harbor is crystal clear, shops and restaurants are open, and life came back.  The day was quite warm and we had to have time to change and get ready for Dana’s big birthday dinner back in Vernazza, so we decided to take the ferry to the last village and then catch the train back to give us an extra couple of hours.  Brilliant idea as we then had time for a last swim, showers and a toes up.  We all donned our finery and caught the train back to Vernazza.  Dinner was at a lovely restaurant overlooking the bay – we spent about 3 hours over courses of amazing food – most of it seafood based.  The antipasti course brought us anchovies again, fixed about 5 different ways!  Also,this day is a holy day so at lunch earlier in the day, we saw the cardinal and some local priests strolling the square and then having lunch.  As this small group made its appearance in the noisy square, voices ceased and the sound level noticeably decreased.  It was a lovely moment.  That evening, after dark, a procession began through the town.  Led by a young man carrying a large crucifix, the older women of the town followed.  Then a second cross with the children after and finally a third crucifix.  It was followed by the town band with musicians from a girl little older than 8 all the way up to some elderly men. Some splendidly uniformed local officials and more church leaders came next, followed by much of the rest of the townspeople.  It was very dear and moving.  We caught a late train, which was even later than normal and got back to the house after midnight.  The waiting time was well spent, though, as Marianna and I sat and had a good final chat.  She is truly a delight and we have our matching shoes so we are bonded!  I said my farewells to most, finished last minute packing, and got to bed for a little sleep.   This morning was the last time I got up, pushed open my balcony shutters, and looked at the morning lighting up the beach and the sea.  It is a view one should never get used to.
The train is running along the coast and through some tunnels as I am saying good bye to this amazing time and part of Italy.  I left the house at 6:15 am to catch the first of my trains.  Meredith and Dana sent me off with prayer and hugs and kisses.  It is very hard to leave – Robert Frost’s poem, “Nothing Gold Can Stay,” comes to mind.  These days in Levanto have been such a gift of friendship, beauty, and gratitude.  I will be happy to be home, when the time comes, but these transition times are a challenge. Right now I am still tethered here.  The flight home will break that bond and my heart will turn to home and family and my sweet grands.
In Oregon, I seldom have times where I go without makeup, rarely don shoes, have a great tan, wear light sundresses, and live in my sunglasses.  That is probably good so I really appreciate these set apart times.  I am so blessed that I have had a number of them.  The goodness of the Lord never ceases.  People watching is always instructional.  As I mentioned before, the grandpas are so dear here.  I never tire of watching them walk their babies, give them bottles, gush over any sweet little one.  I also appreciate the honor given to the young and the old.  There is s true community there.  Small towns obviously contribute to that but it is a pleasure to watch.  Also I have seen more people with disabilities here than at home – they seem to be incorporated into the life of the community as just a normal part of life.  I loved watching some middle school age girls, chuckling and loving on a darling red haired Downs baby yesterday. On the other hand, being served in order is a matter of jockeying for position and drivers KNOW they have the right of way, no matter what!  All the idiosyncrasies of a different culture and people – one of the many joys of travel.
Later – am doing well with my connections. Switched in Genoa for Milan and now Milan to Venice.  Doing well with the 3 pieces of luggage, even up and down the flights of stairs in train stations.  One actually had an escalator – oh happy day!  And the Milan station is very crowded but a thing of beauty – really.  And there were no flights of stairs to navigate so I really like Milan!  Next stop,Venice!!!  Only one more minor hurdle – get to my hotel and then I am free to unload and explore. I am very excited about Venice! The landscape has changed – after Genoa, the train left the coast and headed inland. The landscape is flat and open.  We have passed vineyards and cornfields.
I have arrived in Venice and after a couple of wrong turns and with the help of some lovely people I have arrived at my hotel.  I will set venturing soon and will tell more later.  This is enough for now!

Magical Venice | July 21, 2012

Sitting in San Marco Square – Venice!  It is crowded but the sky is so blue, a breeze is blowing, there is a music group playing, pigeons are strutting. Wow!!!  And I almost didn’t do this!  Three different trains, hauling luggage and getting just a little lost finding my hotel were all so worth it.  Actually, my hotel is quite close to the train station so that is terrific.   After unloading my bags in my room (which is on the third floor and there is no lift!) and getting a quick clean up, I headed out and decided to walk to the Rialto Bridge and San Marco. What a great idea – I took my map but soon quit using it. The occasional sign kept me on track, but I think the signs are as much to walk one through as many streets as possible as to get one to the locations. But that only made for one very happy tourist.  It is just like I imagined – narrow streets with tiny shops, the occasional square, often with a church and a cold water fountain, small bridges to climb up, over and down, and water everywhere.   I love Venice!  I bought my 24 hour pass for public transportation, which of course is all by water, on the vaporetti or water buses.  They run all the time so it is so easy to get about, and fun!  Portland needs these!  I rode one back to my hotel and they are so fun.  Very noisy, especially as they make each stop. It sounds like the boat is grinding apart, but it never happens.  Each stop is a little barge and the exchange of those off and on is done quickly and efficiently.  I did a little shopping and found perfect gifts for a couple of people, so that made me happy!  Don’t you just love it when that happens?  I had supper on the square – and a very poor supper it was. Not Venice’s fault – just a poor choice on my part, but I have been spoiled by all the amazing food I have had.  The view was still worth it.  Today is my last day of the trip before I head home.  After I finish my breakfast (it is now Sunday) I will head out and catch the “bus” for Murano where all the famous glass is blown.  More shopping you are asking?  We’ll see!  Then I will try and visit San Marco basilica this afternoon and the Doge’s palace, but mainly I will just enjoy being in Venice.  It is Sunday today so that all seems so right.  Tonight I catch a very late night train back to Rome, get in there at 6:30 am, catch a commuter train to the airport and fly away home.  I get to have a bed on the train so I am very excited about that.  I love train travel and have always wanted to sleep on a train.  Another wish come true!  My sense of unworthiness is so great today.  Yesterday had so many opportunities for things to be difficult and instead it went so well!  Even my getting a tiny bit lost was a nothing thing.  God gave me people to help there and the occasional person to haul one of my bags on or off a train. I love watching Him work always through my travel circumstances.  People sometimes say to me that they can’t imagine traveling alone, but I am never alone!  God walks so openly with me in these times so I just love it and am SO grateful.  These alone times are another opportunity to rely on Him and just watch in joy as all things work together for good.  Why I am allowed to have this life, I do not know, but I am eternally grateful.  And Paul is always with me too. “The steadfast love of the Lord never ceases – His mercies never come to an end.” And I get to see that so clearly on my trips especially.  It is with a full heart I return home to my rich life there – grands, family, friends, my Women of Vision work, and a brand new baby boy!  Wow!!  I will try to write more later but am not sure about Internet connections.  If not, thank you for traveling with me. Blessings never cease.
The richest woman in the world!