Mozambique – Ready or Not! | August 18, 2014

Flew out of Lusaka on a short 2 hour flight. In Johannesburg, fortunately I had plenty of time before meeting the team as I had to go through customs, collect my luggage, head up to the check-in for the Maputo. I got my boarding pass, back through immigration and security and I was in! All of this went so smoothly and quickly so I was so very grateful. The rest of our group came through a while later and waited in long lines. Another gift. Thanks Lord.

I like the shopping in the Jo’burg airport – so many fun little shops with all the bright African colors and jewelry. Certainly there is quite a bit that caters to the tourist but still some original pieces as well. Some of my favorite things come from this airport.

I didn’t buy much this time but looking is a great pastime. The group and I met at the gate, thinking we would board soon – however our departure time passed and we eventually took off about an hour and a half late.
Although I miss Zambia there are some nice bits about traveling with a group. First I like these women and know them well, and it is also nice to have someone to watch bags or check in something. But mainly it’s just good to know someone has your back.

We certainly knew we were in Africa with the airline we flew to Maputo. Very laid back – no hurry about anything, including boarding and taxiing. Once we were in the air though, the attendants sprang into action and served us drinks and a sandwich for our 1 hour flight. Oh – during take off all the lights needed to be out in the plane – not even reading lights were allowed on. I’d never seen that before! Sandy G thought maybe they needed the lights off to help power up the engines for take off!

Obviously we landed late and spent the next two hours getting through customs (shades of my Lusaka time!) and then waiting again to have our bags scanned as we left the airport. Do not ask me the logic of that! It was a very long line and only one scanner going even though there was another one. It finally started operating just as we were close to the head of the line, of course. And some people come up and do the merge close to the front and no one seems concerned. One just has to smile, be patient, shrug and say, “This is Africa” which covers a multitude of situations.

A quick aside on that phrase – it is not said in a demeaning way. Africans care more about relationships than time and our Western obsession with being on time and perceived fairness is a complete mystery to many. I’ve learned to suspend my normal concerns (although people cutting in line still bugs me – I’ve just learned to keep my mouth shut!) and as much as possible, go with the flow. It helps, a great deal, that I am not in charge! Such a relief to just do what I’m told – something Paul always devoutly wished for!

We finally all got out of the airport and were met by the very long suffering WV staff.

Our myriad bags were loaded into a truck, us into a van and off to the hotel for some much desired sleep. I was in the best shape as I’ve been on this time for a week. They were all quite tired and jet lagged.
The hotel was nice and after check in we all just headed to bed.

We are in Mozambique! Thank you dear Lord for all your amazing provision!

Will We or Won’t We? | August 19, 2014

Saturday – After some good sleep, we met for a buffet breakfast to start our day. The hotels is just fine – air and good food and comfortable beds and a shower! All the necessities of life.
After breakfast we checked out of the hotel and made the very short drive over to WV headquarters for some meet and greet and information sessions. We met on a small boardroom and are always well supplied with water.Manuel is our donor liaison for this trip and he is the high quality person we have come to expect in our work with WV. It’s not something we take for granted – they are such blessings, faithfully take care of us, explain much, show us more, and even seem happy that we are here!
The first person who spoke with us was a lovely young lady who is head of the WASH program here – water, sanitation, hygiene. This is the project that our chapter supports, although we will be seeing other things as well. Next we heard briefly about child protection – near and dear to our hearts – and then Christian witness. The morning passed quickly and soon we were back in the van, headed to the airport for our 2 hour flight to Quelimane, up north. This city is the Zambezia province which is where all the children and projects are that we will be visiting.
We arrived at the airport in good time with the idea of checking in, going through security, and then grab some lunch. As we got up to check in, Manuel took our passports and headed to the desk to get all of our luggage passed through and our boarding passes. Things move slowly here so after a bit, he called Sandy G and myself up and said we not only did we not have seats on the plane, we had no tickets! We headed over to the ticket counter to see if there was any record of our tickets – nope. The woman there couldn’t even tell us if there were still seats on the plane. The rest of the group went through but LuAnn and Manuel stayed with us. First, we had to wait until check in was finished before they could look for seats for us and of course the clock is ticking away! Finally the clerk wrote a note and said there were seats. We quickly took it over to the ticket window, waited our turn and finally bought our tickets for $710 apiece! Originally we were told they would be $1200 so we were relieved by the lower price – a classic case of good marketing – start high and then the person will think the actual price is a bargain! We grabbed our tickets and raced back to check in as our bags still had to go through. The weight was a little over so Manuel had to race back to the cashier and pay that. Finally we were given our boarding passes and headed to security with 20 minutes to go. Luckily, the line was short if rather slow. We made it to departure with 10 minutes to spare! Whew! As the plane wasn’t boarding yet, we even had time to grab a quick sandwich.
Gratefully, on the plane, we breathed a sigh of relief and relaxed. Sandy and I were in the same row with a seat between us so we spread out a bit and both conked out.
It was only a 2 hour flight so we were soon in Quelimane. There was the usual crush around the luggage carousel. I wish you could see this small carousel! It went around in an oval, with black flaps of rubber overlapping some. The conveyor belt that led from the hand pulled carts had this very loud motor and bags regularly got stuck at the entrance to the carousel. But willing hands just shoved things along. All our bags arrived, even the last minute ones so God took very good care of us.
A short drive took us to our hotel – typically African but just fine. It even had a swimming pool! The usual check in and up to rooms. We had some time before dinner, so I actually took a quick swim. Very funny. There were a few young African women, in their bikinis, and some children in the pool. Here I come – this very white lady. All conversation ceased and every eye turned my way as I walked over and got into the pool. Then I swam to the deep end and that was another novelty as most Africans do not swim. Beginning to feel a bit like a freak show, I smiled at a few of them and soon they got back to their conversations with just a quick glance in my direction every now and then.
I took a rather quick swim! but it felt very good.
After a little break, we met down by the pool area for a debrief and sharing time until dinner was ready. Meals often take 45 minutes to an hour after ordering to arrive but the food has been quite good so another blessing.
We were able to make a fairly early evening of it so we all tucked in for a good night’s sleep. So great.
Just a brief word on my roommate – she is a long time friend from WoV, Sandy Hiatt, and just such a lovely and kind person. We had traveled to Honduras together a few years ago so it is a treat to travel with her again. Her heart is so transparent to all she sees so that is a lovely ministry. Obviously, we get along very well.
Good night and good luck!

Getting Around Mozambique | August 16, 2014

Saturday – Morning in Quelimane after a very good sleep for most of us. This day was really quite relaxed so such a change from many trip days. Breakfast was plated so no choices – I enjoyed my coffee and a roll.
Then out to poolside for reflection and devotions. LuAnn also filled us in on some programs we wanted more info on. It was really good to have a longer time for devotions this morning – good thoughts shared on how to receive from God like children – with openness, willingness to believe, and anticipation. At 10:30, we checked out and left at 11 for a nearby restaurant for an early lunch. We are now traveling in a bus with cushy seats and air- conditioning! No suffering for the Lord yet – I feel a little guilty because it is all so lovely. Even the roads here are great – certainly by Zambia standards! The only bumps in the road were speed bumps and they are few and far between.
At lunch, the area sponsorship coordinator met with us. She is a lovely young mom of 3 boys and brought along her just 1 year old daughter, Emily! She kept us all entertained while her mom gave us so much good information about sponsorship here and we waited for lunch. About half of us had grilled prawns for lunch and they were great! Butterflied and seasoned with garlic, lemon, and butter! So different from earlier trips to Africa. We only had to wait about an hour for them. Food is pretty started when one orders so it comes to the table hot and fresh.
We had a little time after lunch so Saina took us just a block over to a couple of craft street vendors where a few meteizels were exchanged. The rate here is about 30 to $1 US.
Right next to the restaurant, was an old Catholic church which had been burned out during the civil war. It is still beautiful and one hopes that someday it will be restored.
Then back to the bus and on the road for about 2 hours out to Mocuba. If you are following us on a map, you will get a good geography lesson on Mozambique!
At the restaurant, we had our own room with a buffet style supper set up for us – very nice. We met with Moussa, the Zambezia province director. He is your “typical” great WV person and had good information and stories to share. He will be with us the next couple of days so it will be nice to get to know him a little better. This is one of the many joys of these trips – are the interesting and amazing people one meets. For me, it is such a hedge against narrow thinking or even possible prejudices. Again, my gratitude for these opportunities overflows.
Back to the hotel and bed.
Good night Mocuba.

The Joy of Africa! | August 17, 2014

Sunday -Today was a glorious day! Finally we got out into the field. After an okay breakfast – glad I brought some Via – we drove out to the villages of Mugeba and Macuane. Our first stop was for a drama performance by the local water committee. These committees are formed initially when a bore hole is proposed for an area. The committee takes ownership of the well and pump and after its completion, handle the maintenance and upkeep. We were met by the wonderful singing and dancing. For me, this is a expected but always very welcome event. However, for several of our women, this was their first time to see this kind of a greeting and were just overcome! It is quite amazing. A couple of us were even given garlands of flower petals and all of is had petals tossed at us. So great.
We were given seats of honor and watched the drama which was funny and real and heart warming. We saw gardens and visited a latrine and a Tipi-Tap to see hygiene practices. The Tipi-Taps are the best – the ultimate in hand washing in the bush. A plastic Jerry can is hung from a tree with a string tied to its neck. The string is then attached to a thick branch on the ground. There is a hole in the can, fairly near the neck. One then just steps on the string, which tips the can, and out comes water for washing. There is a bar of soap tied nearby so it is cleanliness with no touching of anything else! So simple but so brilliant.
Our next stop was at a small clinic which specializes in childbirth. The building had been built by WV just a couple of years ago. There are 18 village midwives who teach the women good practices for themselves and their babies. When a woman is near to delivery, a midwife will accompany her to the clinic for delivery. It has made a difference in mortality rates for both mothers and babies. Again there was more singing and dancing to greet us. As usual, there were a few babies on backs. One was quite little and was so darling. While we were seeing other parts of the compound, this mom came up by me and let me hold her baby. Then I heard the word, “Twins!” and Ann came up with the other little girl! They were so precious so Ann and I, both mothers of 3 sons, got to love on these little girls for a bit – my baby fix!
I loved this stop as I had learned so much about this issue in Sierra Leone, so I brought more knowledge to this and that helped me understand and appreciate what was done here!
Then we headed to another area where we met with a Child Parliament. These are programs WV has set up to let children know their rights and train them to be advocates in their families and communities. They work in 4 areas – health, advocacy, education, and the environment. Children ages 5-17 may join. It is well structured and the young president shared with us. These groups are so impressive and they empower the children to help them improve their lives. We saw a group like this in Bangladesh as well. In places where children are often commodities, these groups are very powerful. After their presentation, we walked over to the village area where 3 of our groups sponsored children waited, along with their parents and some of the villagers. It is always so wonderful to see these visits. The children are generally rather overwhelmed as this is such a big deal to them – like Christmas and their birthdays all rolled into one. Of course, many of them don’t even know what celebrations at those times are like!
We all ate together and the 3 sponsor groups went off to chat and hand out gifts. Sandy H and I bopped around taking pictures for them but it didn’t take all our time so we sat out on the porch area. A group of children were sitting just out in the yard so we decided to go over and play with them. It is always such fun as children are the same the world over. After manhandling them into a circle, we started with the hokey-pokey – always a hit! Especially as we get to the part of putting our whole bodies in and shaking them all about! Another Zambian game I’d learned followed and then Head and Shoulders, Knees and Toes got all of us in giggles, especially the last time which goes very fast! They are such quick studies and just a delight! That stop ended our very full day and we were all so grateful for all of the amazing experiences and for God in our midst.
Back to the guest house for a short toes up and then off to dinner. Same as last night and very good. Moussa, the provincial WV director, joined us again and waxed eloquent on some of the water issues here. The information was very helpful and complete but most of us were fading and there were some droopy eyes, so we wrapped it up and headed home. Some packing up, as we leave for another area tomorrow, and then to bed. For me, it was the first time I had been in the same place for 2 straight nights in 5 days. Luxury!
It was wonderful to listen to different response from our team – as this was a new experience for some of them and there were tears and incredible joy for being allowed to experience the heart of God in Africa.

Overcoming | August 18, 2014

Monday – On the road again! We checked out early from our nice Venus Guest House in Mugeba and then had a quick, for our group, breakfast. Then we headed out for an all morning drive to Murrumbala. I’m beginning to think that most of the towns here begin with the letter M! The roads continued to be good for much of the way. I actually slept for about an hour and a half! So great. We stopped for a quick break at a site where there is a 250 year old tree which supposedly only drops one leaf a year. It was nice to stretch our legs and some of us took advantage of the bush facilities. Back on the road and eventually the tarmac became a little rougher but in our big bus, we still tooled right along. For the last hour or so, the road became dirt but it was pretty well graded so didn’t slow us down too much. Most of the landscape was quite flat with scrub and a few small scattered trees.
But in a couple of places these huge rocky monoliths rose right up from the land. They were really spectacular! I want to check out the geological history of this area when I get home. I always like to know why about things.
After driving this long way on dirt, seeing little more than an occasional hut or two, we arrived in this town! It is a small town but has a square and influences from the days of the Portuguese. This country was one of the few African countries colonized by Portugal and Portuguese is still the official language but there are also many local languages. On more than one occasion we have had a translator who can translate the local language into Portuguese and then another needed to translate that into English. We trust it does not turn into the old telephone game and we get the correct info!
There were many street vendors and the vegetables were colorful and beautiful.
Our first stop was at the government building to pay a courtesy call on the government administrator to assure him that we are on the up and up. That was very quick and then off to our motel to check in and get lunch. This place is quite rustic but clean and just fine. I even think they have wine so we can enjoy that for dinner!
Then hop back in the bus for a short ride out to a borehole site to watch a demonstration of how the pump is serviced by the community. We were met by this absolute throng of children. They swarmed the bus so we had to almost push to get out. We made our way over to the site, accompanied by the crowd of kids. At the well, we were to gather around its edge, but we were just packed in by children, many of them trying to push in to see. The adults kept trying to push them back but the effort met with short- lived success. Sandy G and I were struggling to keep our balance so were invited to get in a little closer, which was nice. A crew of all women took the pump apart – it is not a quick or easy job but they did very well. I had never seen this happen in all my borehole visits so it was interesting and another valuable piece in all we are learning. Before this pump had gone in, the women walked close to 5 miles, each way, to collect water which was of questionable quality.
After the demonstration, we took a few pictures with the water committee, another exercise in juggling around kids. Back to the bus for another short ride to another poorer community. There, we watched a WV training on the importance of hygiene in hand washing and using the latrines, rather than just free ranging.
With drawings and some funny and specific motions, they got the measure across. They had a couple of people from the crowd demonstrate proper hand washing techniques. Then the leader started a lively talk on poop! Basically the message was, through improper free ranging and the ever present flies, one’s poop would end up in one’s food! Graphic but effective! A community has to demonstrate commitment to good hygiene and sanitation before a bore hole is drilled in their community. After some warm good byes, we headed back to the guest lodge.
On the way back, some of us got out and walked through the town a bit. The shopping center was in full swing. The little tables and booths line the “sidewalk” selling everything from cell phone time to batteries to gum and so on. The displays of the bright vegetables are always my favorite. One booth had a very nice selection of beautiful fabrics so a few bought some pieces. While we were looking and making choices,we attracted a bit of a crowd. One woman came up to me to show me her baby. The little one reached out with both hands and grabbed my waiting fingers. We exchanged greetings and smiles – so dear. As we left, people wanted to shake hands – touch the white women! It was a nice way to end the day.
A word or two about the guest house – it is fine but is definitely the weakest of our accommodations. Here, I always feel slightly guilty for mentally grumbling about on again, off again water and lots of mosquitos etc. but of course I do it a bit. Spoiled American!
Dinner was a lively meal as we got telling various family stories so there was a lot of laughter and enjoyment of each other’s company. Then we had a debrief of the day where we share high and low points for each of us and have our devotions – a valuable time.
Today was a good day but while we were pushing around the well, I looked at the little faces around me and saw more signs of deep poverty than I’d seen previously on this trip. More dirt, shabbier clothing, some rashes or sores, and one little guy with blinking eyes which can mean that dirty water has infected his eyes. That is always hard to see and makes me so grateful for the good care my little ones receive but also hurts that these little ones do not have it. But there is hope as progress is being made.
“Although the world is full of suffering, it is also full of the overcoming of it.”. Helen Keller
We are seeing both.

The Joy of Sponsorship | August 19, 2014

Tuesday – What a day! This was our last day out in the field but was so rich and full! Most of us wake up early, so we gathered outside for some coffee and time together on a beautiful cool morning. So lovely. Then, after a rather leisurely breakfast, we headed out to visit a new medical facility. There were 3 buildings, not even operational yet, that we saw. One is for general medical treatment, one is for labor and delivery, and one is housing for staff. They are just lovely and such a necessary addition to the community. We were greeted with some singing here and the children were so curious about us. They stayed out of the building but kept peeking around the door frames at us.
However, we were not such a hit with one little guy as he burst into tears each time he spotted one of our white faces! His sister, who was toting him around, kept hushing him as if he were an embarrassment to the visitors!
The facility is solar powered so that helps so much.
After our tour, we were given a couple of short skits related to family planning and safe water. Always fun to watch. In this community, like the others we have visited, there are so many little children and babies on backs. Africa is a young continent and so the opportunity for advancement is great. People are always so grateful to see us so it is wonderful but incredibly humbling. The folks here always seem to think it is such a big deal that we come to see them, but for us it is just the most amazing privilege just to be here, let alone be welcomed so warmly.
The previous night, at dinner, we had asked our WV staff to visit someone or someplace to hear a story or two. So our second stop was at a borehole site and a few scattered huts. Initially we were told we were going to visit a family but first we had to visit the borehole. Many women and children were around with the universal yellow Jerry cans. Then someone offered to take us to the original water site. Knowing that these sites can often be a long way off, I thinking we could be in for a long walk. We set out through the grassy fields, on a rocky path, with sun beating down. Soon the path headed downhill with larger rocks and as we walked, we hoped the end point was not too far off. After about a half mile or so, (which is terrific for over here) we came to two holes dug down into the ground, surrounded by palm trees. Some women were still doing wash down there, to save the pump water, and drying clothing draped over the bushes. The stories began, of sleeping down there to wait for the water to rise, of poisonous snakes, of men who would scare them away and steal their hard won water, of sick children. The we headed back, uphill, but we were not carrying about 50 pounds of water on our heads, with babies on our backs! Yes, we got hot and a bit thirsty but that is just the tiniest hint of what these people endured so many years and often more than once a day. It was our own little walk for water! As a gardener, I know water is the best fertilizer for roses. Over here, clean water is medicine. Life is transformed by clean water.
We then made a quick pit stop at the ADP office and then headed off to another gathering. We were running late and our 4 sponsored children were already waiting. The next stop was really worth the delay. It is a cultural program run for the local school children. This is an amazing program, started by a group of local pastors, with WV help, when parents began complaining that their 7th graders couldn’t read or write. This after school program was started to teach them but also they have prayer groups and pray for the revival of the church, for donors, and for peace in Mozambique. We saw these prayer groups in session – the children, with one adult leader, circle up and all start praying aloud, at the same time. Then the leader finishes. It may sound like it would be very confusing but there is something quite moving about all these voices lifted up to the Lord.
Finally, we got to head back to the ADP office to meet our kids and have lunch. They had set it up so nicely. We came into a large room with separate tables for each of us and our children. My sweet Nhudo had come with her father and we just hugged and smiled at each other until our interpreter arrived. It was a great visit. She is 13 – I had thought she was 11 – and in grade 5. Her family is quite poor and gets by mainly on substance farming. There are 6 children. Nhudo is second so is expected to help out at home and with the little ones. She has missed some school so it behind. I urged her father to keep her in school and not have her marry too young. He assured me he would do that but I wonder if I am just being told what I want to hear. I will keep praying and helping where I can. The gifts were enjoyed, numerous pictures were taken and we said a warm goodbye. I always wonder, after these intense little visits, if I will ever see this child again. Probably not but we have a connection forever.
Back to the guest lodge and a short break before dinner. We were all tired as it had been a very full but so wonderful day.
Dinner was another delightful time as a number of WV staff joined us. I sat between 2 friends and we had good conversation about family and all that we had seen in the past few days. Then gifts were presented, toasts made, many hugs and abrigados (thank yous). Off to bed in our sprayed room (for bugs, mosquitos mainly – no nets here) and a good night’s sleep.
Why I come to Africa – to see little children waving, smiling and even jumping up and down and to know there is hope that their lives will be better but that they never lose the joy.

Living Out of a Suitcase  | August 20, 2014

Wednesday – Another absolutely beautiful morning in Murrumbala. I had my trickle shower, got packed up, which is getting easier and easier as I fall into routine, and headed outside for coffee and breakfast. It is cool in the mornings, with a slight breeze, and there are birds chirping. Such a wonderful start to the day!
Side note – we have had no Internet at all, even when we attempt roaming, let alone wifi, so once I get back to the land of wifi, there will be a rash of new posts. Read at your leisure. This has been the longest I have gone without it in the last few years of technological wonders, but somehow it really hasn’t mattered! I know absolutely critical information could get to me, if needed, so it is so relaxing to just unplug and be here.
We loaded into our wonderful bus and bounced out of town, headed back to Quelimane and a plane. The time on the bus has never seemed too long as there is time for a short nap, the scenery is ever changing and mostly interesting – walking people, boreholes, huts – and great conversations with fellow travelers. We also past that huge monolith again, and Sandy G and I were bemoaning the fact that we didn’t have the time to climb it as that would have been incredible!
We arrived at the airport about 11:30 and were met by Moussa, (WV Zambezia manager) who so graciously came to see us off. He hustled us all up to a check-in clerk and we had our boarding passes and luggage gone in no time. No ticket excitement this time! Thank you Lord. I think I can only maintain my calm for one major misstep per trip!
We had plenty of time before our flight back to Maputo. The waiting area was small so we all sat in a row. The other people there just kept looking at us. We must make quite a sight – this gaggle of white chattering women! Our plane actually left almost on time so that was a pleasant surprise.
Less than 2 hours later were on the ground in Maputo, quickly (by African standards!) collected our bags and headed over to WV headquarters. We had a short visit with the national director and a couple other members of staff – debriefing about our time. I collected my extra bag, which I’d left there. It was wonderful to only tote around one bag out in the field, especially as we were in 4 different guest houses!
Back to Hotel Africa, where we had stayed our first night in country. Oh the luxury of real showers that were hot! After cleaning up, we gathered for a short walk over to an Italian restaurant for dinner. Think Pizza Hut not Nicoletta’s! Again, such fun!
Most of us got pizza and it was very good. We all wore our kampulias – the wrap around fabric which serves as a skirt or baby carrier or head protector while carrying water. Very all purpose. We wore them as skirts and our Strong Women, Strong World T-shirts. We were quite a sight. Again, there was much laughter and toasting of Manuel as this was our last night with him. We also had some gifts for him.
Back to the hotel, organize again and off to bed in our lovely rooms.
At the beginning of the trip, the constant repacking and organizing seemed like a biggish deal but after doing it so much, I’ve stayed in 8 different places so far, I am getting used to it. Things have kind of settled into a spot so I can find things fairly simply. I am finally living out my luggage tag – “I would gladly live out of a suitcase, if I could see the world!”. It’s working.

Crafts and Roads and Why  | August 22, 2014

Thursday – Morning in Maputo – great to have a real hot shower with pressure – clean hair, but going down from the 10th floor to breakfast, although the food was better, I missed the lovely morning outside in Murrumbala. Then we turned into tourists.
Manuel took us to a nearby area where there were a large number of craft booths, purses hanging from branches, and gorgeous fabric pictures. We had changed our money so we were prepared to favorably impact the economy. The morning was still cool and we were the first customers of the day. There were a number of fun things so we had fun poking around, haggling with the vendors, and being importuned constantly! Attie will be pleased that my haggling skills have definitely improved! After a couple of hours, Manuel rounded us up and took as back to the hotel. He had brought us lunch but had to leave for the airport so we had a warm goodbye. Up to our rooms to fit all of our purchases into our bags and we met downstairs to eat our lunch. However, the power had gone out – a first for this trip but Sandy H, LuAnn and I were up on the 10th floor. Luckily we were going down and not up and the poor bellboys climbed up and dragged down our heavy bags.
Lunch was sandwiches and Manuel had left us on a high note with desserts! Chocolate cake and apple strudel. Fun lunch and then we checked out and waited for a little bit for our ride. As there was time, a few of us did a walk around the block – got in a little street life, mainly little fresh fruit and veggie stands.
Soon after we got back, our driver arrived to drive us to South Africa for our safari in Kruger National Park! He is a nice young white South African and I think he was a bit appalled at all our luggage but he and a couple of hotel helpers gamely wrestled it all in and we climbed into the very comfortable van and headed out of Maputo. Good bye Mozambique.
We drove through the dry landscape for about 2 hours before the border crossing. We would have been faster except for a half hour construction stop.
At the border, we popped out of the van, went into a small building with a short queue. There was a little of that merging we have experienced in all our queues but we are used to it. We were quickly stamped put of Mozambique, drove a very short distance and did the same thing only this time we were stamped into South Africa.
Immediately over the border, everything changed. It turned green and lush. There were rocky hills and we drove over a lovely clean looking river. We passed banana groves where the banana bunches are bagged to protect them. The roads are great – just like at home but we are still driving on the left.
Being in the van is hysterical. Our driver, who is very amused by us, would point out out “Sugar cane” and the Greek chorus chimed in, “Oh, sugar cane!”. “Mango tree” “Oh, mango tree!”. And a comment like, “Those mountains on the right are in Kruger” will elicit a swell of “Ohhhhh”s. Are we tourists or what?
We left Maputo about 1 and we were to arrive about 6. However, with the one long construction stop and several detours because of road construction, it was closer to 7:30 before we arrived in the dark.
As it got darker I think all of us were expecting to be on more isolated roads with little traffic and few signs of civilization. But instead, we were on roads with heavy traffic, particularly slow trucks and buses. We traveled through towns and as it got dark, it seemed like there were lights spotted everywhere! I, at least, was wondering, “Where the heck are we!?”. But our driver was a pro and eventually we turned onto a road where the lights went away and the stars came out and the traffic eased to just an occasional vehicle. We finally arrived and our driver bid a very thankful goodbye to us. He’d left at 6 am and was done. Actually, he is really a guide and got shanghaied into driving us today. Near the end, he said that if he was ever asked to do this again, he’d break his leg! He assured us it wasn’t us but rather the drive and he really does not like Mozambique! Lodge staff met us in the parking lot and checked us in. Then several women came to help us with our bags. The woman who helped Sandy and me, hoisted by very heavy bag up onto her head! and then pulled Sandy’s! We walked across the parking lot and up a little path to our “tent”. It is really like a cabin with canvas walls and a wooden floor. It is just lovely and cozy – great beds with fresh clean linens and fluffy towels. A lovely bathroom with a door that opens out to a protected outdoor shower. I definitely plan to use it one of our mornings here! After ohhhing and ahhhhing for a few minutes, we collected ourselves headed to the main building – rather like a lodge. I feel like I am at camp! There are a number of other people here so it feels like a good sized hotel.
There was a beautiful buffet for dinner so we eagerly packed in and enjoyed our meal so much. As we were headed out at 5:45 the next morning, we made an early evening of it.
The drive had been long but it had been an adventure for the most part – the border crossing and seeing the varied landscape. We slowly watched the turn from a struggling developing country, to one that is much much farther on the road.
Driving out of Maputo earlier in the day and seeing tenements with clothing hanging and such an air of poverty I wondered what if would be like to live up there, in poverty, and look down and watch a van of privileged white women drive by and not even be able to imagine what that kind of life must be like! That is me in that van, living that life of privilege. The “why” has no answer. The only response can be gratitude, humility, and the commitment to live a life worthy of the blessing.

Impalas Are Snacks  | August 22, 2014

Friday – I’m not even sure how to talk about today! After a focused few days of ministry and seeing God’s heart for His favorite people, the poor, shifting focus to just pure pleasure seems a bit like a travesty. But I have learned, on these trips, that some transition time, before returning home, is very important. Reentry is hard enough, as one is changed and the old patterns don’t quite fit anymore, so a break is so helpful. We are still in Africa and seeing the upside. If that sounds like justification to some of you, so be it. I can live with that!
Last night, we arrived in the dark and left this morning just as the sun was coming up at 5:45. It was our first day in the park and we were out to see some animals. Given sat experiences on half day safaris, my expectations were quite low. We were going to be to all day so there was some hope.
It was rather chilly, especially while driving, so we all bundled up. It felt good to get into some regular shoes for a change. We climbed into a safari jeep – three rows of three seats, each row a little higher than the one before for better visibility. The truck had a roof and was open on all sides. The seats were quite comfortable and blankets were even provided for the cool morning.
Our guide, Vusi, is a black South African, who has worked here for over 14 years. He truly was a gift to us. He knows this huge park like the back of his hand and knows so much about all the animals. We learned so much.
Off we went and almost before we knew it, we came to a small herd of wildebeest which we watched for a bit and then they trotted across the road right in front of us. Next came the Cape Buffalo, up close and personal. We then watched a “rock” which turned into a rhino! And so it continued! We were just flabbergasted! We never dreamed we would see so many animals and so close. We teased Visu about making arrangements with the animals and even them asking them to pose for us because that is what seemed to happen! At first we got so excited about seeing an animal in the distance but then they started being so close and easily visible! There are no words. Giraffes with their graceful lope, amazing necks and beautiful eyes – Kudu with their incredible twisted horns – Impala and their tiny legs and delicate bodies, like something out of a fairy tale – more rhinos and baby, with their precious horns that is costing them their lives as poachers ruthlessly kill them for their horns – zebras with their geometric look, the horses of Africa, love them – then a little Garden of Eden with wildebeest, zebra, giraffe and impala, all hanging together to help each other out. The giraffe can see great distances and have the advantage of a view – the zebra and impala are quick to give warning – and the wildebeest just tag along! A few wart hogs also wandered through. Baboons along a river – such nasty creatures but interesting to watch safely. Then came the elephants! We stopped for quite awhile, along a river, marshy area, and watched two herds of elephants interact and just be. It was incredible. Vusi had so much information for us – the different vocalizations they make, how two meeting herds greet each other, how they look out for each other. We heard them, we watched the babies, we saw them cool off with water “hoses” and we just sat there in gratitude and joy for these majestic animals.
And there were more – hippos, wildebeest, crocodile, antelope, and several kinds of birds. And most of them were right there, near the road! They are so used to the vans, they don’t even twitch. Even easily startled animals like impala just keep on grazing and hanging out. It is amazing!
Throughout the day, we stopped a couple of times. This park is so well laid out. You’ll be driving along a dirt road with nothing in sight and then turn a corner, and there is a lovely rest area for coffee, a snack, and maybe a little gift store. At one stop we exchanged our US money for South African rand. It was an “Africa time” experience but we all got what we wanted and moved on.
Lunch was at a golf course. Yes, a golf course! The food was very good and we had fun watching the hippos sinking and surfacing in the pond. Little wart hogs trotted around with their tails proudly erect and their self-important ways! They are so cute. My sons all worked at Oregon Golf Club during college and they never had to contend with a lion kill on a green! But the safety record is perfect here although golfers are warned top play the course at their own risk!
We began the drive back to the camp but still saw so many animals along the way. We pretty much kept moving with the occasional exclamation of “Oh, there are some zebras.”
“Look at the giraffe.”. “Wildebeest!”. And there were always impala everywhere.
Back at the camp about 5, we were all just bubbling over with excitement about our day. We had seen 17 different species – many of them multiple times! As we left Vusi, he told us that the next day would be spent “running for cats!”. Yeah!
We pushed back dinner as we had a late lunch so I finally got online and sent off those posts. Our table at dinner is reserved for us and the placard reads, Inspiration Table. It’s actually the name of our travel company, but we like to think it applies to us. We enjoyed another lovely dinner and headed off to a fairly early bed as we had another early morning.
Sandy and I went to sleep with drums pounding in the distance! We are in Africa!

A few thoughts from the day – speed bumps here are riding over dung.
We watched, in rather horrified fascination, as a baboon picked through some elephant dung looking for insects. She then walked off with a hunk for a snack later! No meatballs for us for a long time!
Many plays on the name kudu – Dr Seuss time!
It was another day, for me, when life felt too big and full of the question “Why me?”. All I can say is thank you Lord.

The Big Five!  | August 23, 2014

Saturday – Up again at 5. It was very chilly this morning so we dressed quickly and headed to the lodge for our breakfast and hot coffee, to drink and to hold. One rather depressing piece here is that almost all the guests are white. Not quite sure what to do with that.
You should have seen us as we headed out! It was already quite cool and driving in an open vehicle made it cold. We had hats and scarves and jackets covering several layers and each of us huddled in a blanket. We were a pretty amusing sight but we kept warm!
The sunrise was again spectacular – such a red sun. Gradually, as the day warmed up the layers came off but we sure were grateful for those blankets as we started out!
We were just on our way into the park, when our driver exclaimed, “Cheetah!” and stopped the truck. And yes, there was a cheetah, which should have run away but didn’t , sitting on a large rock sunning herself! She was there the entire time as we watched and shot myriad pictures. What a start to the day!
Our guide was on a quest to find lions today but along the way we again saw so many animals. A young spotted hyena was just trotting along the road and was quite happy for us to drive with him and shoot away. He actually was quite cute and his species is a very necessary part of the ecology of the land. Various kinds of vultures clean up the meat scrapes after the big guys are done, and then the hyenas break up the bones. Such an amazing symbiosis.
An endangered honey badger dashed across the road in front of us – no time for
pictures but we did see him. Impala are all over the place A few little mongoose were right by the road and then the quest for lions began in earnest. The various guides communicate with each other so we headed to a river area where some had been spotted. There was more traffic today as many private cars came into the park, just for the day.
Then we came to a brushy river area and spotted lions! They were a bit elusive and at a distance but we saw 3 lionesses at different times. The baboons were the signal guys – as soon as they started chattering and heading to the trees, our guide knew lions were near. Yeah for our binoculars! Through them, most of us got to see the lions quite well. What a treat! Our guide was a little disappointed we weren’t closer, but no complaints from us. We got a cheetah after all!
The list of birds continued to grow and we saw a busy anteater and some different kinds of monkeys. We also continued to see many of the same animals as yesterday. One section of the drive was typical – ” Zebras on the right”. “Oh look other there – a giraffe”. “Get those wildebeest crossing”. The whole experience has not seemed real!
We were making it a shorter day, so after lunch, we were going to make our way back to the lodge. As we turned down the road to the golf course again, Vusi abruptly stopped and quietly pointed and said,”Leopard!”. He ran across the road but then stopped! He stood close by for just a couple of minutes but long enough for pictures! We were just flabbergasted because sightings are pretty rare. Of course, this time has been so over the top nothing should surprise us!
Another nice lunch watching the hippos surface and bubble away and the little gentlemen wart hogs trotting importantly around. We realized we had seen all of the Big Five in one day! Lion, rhino, Cape buffalo, leopard, and elephant! We were in awe.
Back in our truck, we headed back to the lodge and got in about 3:30. I was happy that there was time for a swim so I did a couple of circles around the pool. The water was rather chilly and I almost chickened out but when in Africa . . . Once I got moving, it really did feel good. I dried in the sun for a few minutes along with a group of Italian kids chatting away. On my way back to our room, I grabbed a couple of glasses of wine and Sandy and I dragged chairs out onto our little porch and relaxed, worked on our devotions, and just kept saying to each other, “Can you believe we are doing this?”.
We gathered in the lodge before dinner for our final devotion time and also did a passage using Lectio Divina as our early Sunday since we are traveling all day tomorrow.
It had gotten very chilly again so most of us dashed back to our tents to bundle up. The lodge is open on the sides so the temp is the same inside and out. Luckily there is some heat in the tents.
Another great meal wound down with “graduation” presents to our trip newbies – Imodium and Pepto Bismol. Then we presented LuAnn with a gift from the craft market, a card, and limited ourselves to just a few words of our huge appreciation for her – who she is and all she has done for each of us. She is retiring from WV the beginning of September so this is her final official vision trip. We all feel so blessed to be on this trip with her.
Most then headed back to pack up and get ready for bed. I stayed and had some Internet time, posting and catching up a bit with my world.
Tomorrow the main group heads home but LuAnn and I get to go onto Cape Town for a few days. So amazing!
I have done all these things and I still can’t believe it!

From Kruger to Cape Town  | August 24, 2014

Sunday – after a cozy night’s sleep where we got to sleep in some, Sandy and I got up and began organizing our things to fly that day. For my shower, I took advantage of the outdoor shower out the back of our tent, it was fully protected and very fun, if a bit chilly when I turned the water off. Have to seize all the experiences!
I headed over to the lodge for an early coffee and some writing time before breakfast. The mornings are so clean and bright here. When the entire group arrived, we found a table in the sun – felt so good. Breakfast relaxed and so good. Because it is open to the outside, little birds fly in and out, chirping.
While we were munching away, one of the ladies shouted, “Elephant!”. Just beyond the perimeter wire fence was an adult elephant with her baby. We were feeling so excited about seeing them when someone else pointed and said, “Giraffe!”. There were two giraffes just up the hill a little further. What a perfect final breakfast here. We couldn’t go to see the animals anymore so they came to see us! After breakfast, I had a little time to walk the property and came down by the pond. Many of us thought we had heard hippos snorting in the night, and, sure enough, as I came up to the pond, a couple snorted and bubbled up to the surface. What a grand farewell!
After checking out of the lodge, a bit reluctantly, Arno, our long-suffering driver from the drive in, arrived to take us to the airport. He looked a little resigned, but it was only an hour drive to the airport and it was a lovely sunny morning. The countryside was lovely with much green and all these interesting rocky outcroppings. We also drive through some towns and the standard of living is so much higher here than in Mozambique.
We arrived promptly, unloaded and hauled our bags into the airport – a small very charming African airport. Check in went quickly and I was shown some grace on my slightly overweight bag – no extra charge. Wasn’t that lovely?
We had a very short flight to Johannesburg where we all had to collect our bags to check in for our next flight. Here the gang split up as most were headed back to the US and LuAnn and I were catching our flight down to Cape Town. Many hugs and well wishes and we headed our separate ways. LuAnn and I easily got checked in and unloaded our bags. We had some time so we tootled around some and then had some supper.
Our flight actually left a few minutes early for the two and a half hour flight. This was a rather bare bones airline and the attendants’ uniforms win the ugliness contest but it really didn’t matter as I slept almost the entire way. Yeah! They were also pretty casual about the regulations as I had unfastened my seat belt to sleep and just woke up prior to landing. After touching down, I went to unfasten my belt and I had never redone it. One part was hanging down in the aisle and no one said a word! Just funny.
Again luggage came quickly and our driver was right there to collect us and off we headed to our B & B. It was dark so not too much to see but our place is lovely and cozy. The night manager is a charming young man named Clive, who is in law school. He is taking great care of us. We were met by Karen, LuAnn’s long time friend and my new one. After quickly unloading our stuff, we met Karen in the little breakfast area where she had wine, grapes, and crackers and cheese for us! Such a treat.
It is very nice to back in the world of good wifi, showers that put out more than a trickle, but there is the trade off. Being here is a treat and pleasure. Being in Zambia and Mozambique is where my heart is and where I get to see God so clearly in action.
Thank you I get to have both. Lord, my cup overflows.