Tables – A Mountain and the Dining Ones  | August 25, 2014

Monday – it seems so strange to be really on vacation after the great significance of the Mozambique time and even Kruger felt quite separate from “normal” life. But here I am I’m a big city, with all the amenities of life, amazing food and wine, shopping, sight-seeing. I am very grateful – it is just a bit of a disconnect.
My traveling companions are completely wonderful. LuAnn is of course a long time friend and we have traveled many miles together. Her friend, Karen, is just a wonder to have along. She is delightful but also knows Cape Town very well so she gets us about, is able to direct taxis, knows great restaurants, and is our own personal tour guide.
We actually slept in until 7 this morning – heaven! After a leisurely breakfast we headed down to the V&A waterfront area, named for Victoria and her second son, Alfred, who started the construction of the bay here in 1860.
We hopped a tour bus, cappuccinos in hand, that took us around and gave us an overview of the area. It was nice enough that we could sit up top and there were earplugs so we could listen to commentary as we rode along. The first highlight was up to Table Mountain, a flat topped mountain which dominates the landscape of the city below. Then back down and our next stop was at Camps Bay, on the Atlantic. With the sun out, this was a stunningly beautiful beach with rocky promontories and clean grainy sand. The water was myriad shades of blue – almost tropical in color. We kicked off our shoes and walked in the sand and got our feet (and pants!) wet but it was glorious. I clamber on a few of the rocks briefly. I could have spent all day there but lunch beckoned. We found a great restaurant with a view of the bay and talked over our excellent food. Both of my friends are more experienced diners and wine aficionados than I am so it is a pleasure to ride along on their coat tails!
Back on the bus to the harbor area where some serious shopping commenced. Although I am not a great shopper at home, it is such fun to poke through shops that carry things I wouldn’t see anywhere else. I was highly successful in my quest for the perfect gifts and, yes, Attie, I did buy you something! Someone on my team told me that when you had seen her, you instructed her to tell me buy you a lot of things! She passed your message on!
We went back to our hotel to freshen up and take a bit of a break before heading out to dinner. Another adventure in fine dining. LuAnn and Karen had ostrich. I tried it and it was very good! The restaurant felt very cosmopolitan and for the young and hip. We decided we were the old and hippy! Meals are very European as we lingered at least 2 hours, sharing a dessert and having some coffee.
When we left the restaurant, it was raining rather hard but it was only a short dash to the taxi so not even damp. Back home to catch up a bit with this and then bed.
A great first day in Cape Town.

Two Sides of Cape Town  | August 26, 2014

Tuesday – woke early this morning and actually got on my running gear and headed out. It is very safe here and well lit. I trotted the short distance down the hill we are on and came to the main street which has a very wide walkway, lined with trees. The perfect running route. It felt SO good to be in motion again and fortunately I don’t seem to have lost too much ground by my inactivity.
Back to the hotel for a wonderful shower and then a quick breakfast. LuAnn kindly joined me as I was heading out to hopefully get out to Robben Island, the former prison where Mandela and so many other political prisoners lived for many years. Mandela was there for 18 years.
I caught a taxi down to the waterfront area to buy my ticket and board the boat which takes one out to the island. It was a lovely morning, despite an uncertain weather prediction, so I was grateful. The boats don’t head out in poor weather.
I got to the ticket area and naively asked for a ticket – nope – sold out all day. In fact it was sold out all week! Oh no! Then I noticed a small group of Brits who were still waiting and they said they had been told that, once the boat was loaded, there could be no shows.
So we patiently queued and watched people pouring onto the boat. Hope was beginning to wane. Then the boat sailed off and we all were so disappointed. But right then the ticket agents called us up and sold us tickets! We headed down to a waiting area and after a bit, loaded onto a second boat! Yeah!
The ride out was a bit of a roller coaster so my tummy was glad it was only half an hour. Upon arriving on the island, we loaded onto buses and a guide gave us so much great information as we passed by various sights – the guards’ quarters, the infirmary, the cell blocks, the quarries where prisoners labored. I saw my one and only penguin strutting by the road.
The history of this place is a harsh microcosm of apartheid. No white prisoners were sent here – only colored and black men. The difference there is that the colored were of mixed race and the black or Bantu were totally black. They were dressed differently and had different amounts of food each day with the Bantu coming out on the short end of both.
They all were put to hard labor in the quarries to get rock for the roads and buildings. The bitter irony is that the prisoners could see Cape Town and Table Mountain in the distance – freedom in sight. Also the island is covered with beautiful calla lilies. Such an anachronism in this place. At one stop, a former guard hopped on and shared with us a bit from his perspective. He was with Mandela quite a bit and gradually came to change his ingrained attitude toward race. He has just written a book which would be very interesting to read.
The island is not very large and quite flat and low in the water. There is a lighthouse and the occasional old shipwreck on the beach. There are penguins there but mainly off on a promontory which I didn’t have time to visit.
After a bit, our bus dropped us off and we headed into the prison blocks and were met by a former political prisoner. He took us around and shared stories of his experience. Very moving and informative. Our final stop was at Nelson Mandela’s tiny cell. So hard to imagine years in that space. The whole experience serves again as a reminder of man’s inhumanity to others. The time was too short but so worthwhile and I was so grateful for the opportunity.
The ride back was much smoother and I think I even dozed a little. I was to text LuAnn when I got back to meet up with them but my phone died! That never happens to me but obviously I hadn’t checked it. So what to do? Very small chance they might be there when I got off but not planning on that. So I grabbed a taxi and headed back to the hotel. I got into my room and charged my phone and almost immediately a couple of messages came up from her. They were at a restaurant right down on the wharf! In fact, I had walked right by it! Another taxi and I was soon there and enjoyed another delicious lunch overlooking the bay. Such a tough life
It was midafternoon by this time so we poked around down there for a bit and then drove back to the hotel. LuAnn and Karen had picked up our car while I was out on the island. Karen is an experienced African driver so she is driving, which it is wonderful. She is like the very best kind of personal travel guide! I think I have said this before. I am so happy to meet her and she is adding so much to this trip on many levels.
After hour or so of toes up time, we headed out for dinner. Really!?
We are having these couple course dinners with wine recommended by the sommelier. I am out of my league but truly enjoying myself. Conversation is often WV related but it is such fun as these two have so many stories related to all their years with the organization. Some very poignant and others so funny I almost cry!
A short drive took us back to the Cape Standard and a bit of organizing and off to bed.
I am so glad I have gotten to visit Cape Town – to me there are so many bits that remind me of other places – steep streets with brightly colored houses and a wharf area like San Francisco – two story buildings with the wrought iron of New Orleans – the wind of Chicago – and the coast line of Oregon. A beautiful city.
Tomorrow – wine country and Franschhoek!

Wine Country  | August 27, 2014

Wednesday – we got off to a leisurely start as we had no set time schedule – so nice! We didn’t have to get too organized as we are in a car! So in went the suitcases, backpacks and shopping bags. I had two of each! Come Friday, I will really have to consolidate.
We checked out of our so lovely hotel, saying good bye to Clive, the young Zimbawean law student who took such good care of us.
A quick aside on costs here – they are amazingly inexpensive! We are having these stellar meals, with wine, for about $25 – $30 a head! And the hotel was so much less than I had expected. It is very expensive to get here if one is just flying from the US but once here, one can do so well. I am very grateful.
We quickly made our way out of town, in the rain and wind, and headed east. Soon we were out of the city and into wine country. We passed vineyard after vineyard. This area does not look like Africa! Much more like France or Italy! Many of the buildings are white with strong wooden doors. Each property often has a gated type entrance and a tree lined drive. Everything is so clean and prosperous.
About 10:30, we stopped at our first vineyard for a tasting. This particular vineyard has been owned and operated by the same family for over 200 years so there many pictures and some history. There were also a number of very eclectic framed posters. The building was low and a little dark but romantic and very like a wine cellar. The fire was a welcome sight. Two friendly dogs kept us company and the man who served us was charming and full of good information, of course! Being as the hour was still quite early, we just had a couple of small samples which were excellent.
A little more driving brought us to a charming little town, Stellenboosch. The place names reflect the long- standing Dutch presence here. We poked around a bit in little shops – I did NOT buy anything! – and then stopped for coffee.
Back into the car and a little further down the road we stopped at Glen Carlou Vineyard. We had had a wine from this vineyard at dinner the previous night. This place looked quite different than the last one. It was up a slight hill so there was an incredible view of the vineyard and then the far mountains. The building was much larger and open with big windows facing the view. The room looked more like Africa with its high thatched roof and decor. Again, there was a lovely fire on this cool, damp day.
Karen had made us a reservation for lunch – yes, we are eating our way through South Africa! Fortunately, our meals are very leisurely and the portions are not huge – just right! Like on a couple of other trips, I am taking pictures of the food! For example, for lunch today I had a small cauliflower souffle, with a puréed spinach sauce and it was presented with mint leaves and a little shaved parmesan. The main course was a butternut risotto, decorated with dried tomato slices which looked rather rose like. We were also served tiny bites of a complementary starter and then a bite of chocolate for dessert! Such great food!
After lunch, we hopped back in the car and headed off to Franschhoek, an absolutely charming little town in the middle of wine country. I couldn’t tell you how many vineyards we passed on the way here and we are only about 35 miles outside of Cape Town. Upon arrival, we checked into this amazing guest house that LuAnn had stayed in before. We have a wonderful room which is its own separate building. There is a covered porch looking out onto a little walled garden with a tiny pool. Obviously this time of year we can’t use the pool, but it is so lovely just to look at. Everything here is complementary, including the mini bar and snacks so it is quite amazing. I really can’t describe it all because I’m not quite believing it yet!
We settled in for a bit to rest and then headed out for another evening of excellent food and fine wine.
It has cooled off quite a bit and while eating dinner, a huge white light flashed through the front windows, followed soon after by a very loud crash. The thunderstorm had arrived! Being as we were warm and dry, it was very fun to watch. Back to our beautiful space and soon off to bed. I went right to sleep but woke a little before 5 to driving wind and rain on our roof. Again, it was rather exciting to hear but didn’t make for the best sleeping. No complaints however. I wouldn’t dare!

Good Things in Abundance  | August 28, 2014

After our night of storms, it was nice to wake to just a small drizzle.  I headed out for a short run through the lovely streets of Franschhoek.  Again, it felt like running through a small European village.  A welcome shower followed and then a wonderful breakfast in the main house of this so very beautiful guest home.  It is run by the loveliest couple who are always free to stop and chat.  It is really like staying in someone’s personal home.  We enjoyed our breakfast in the dining room of the house, joined by a couple from Belgium.  One of the many joys of traveling is the people one meets, from all over the world.  These folks were celebrating their 10th anniversary and we had the nicest visit.  Karen joined us soon – she booked her trip a little later than LuAnn and I did so was staying just a couple of blocks away.

We soon headed out to do our day which involved poking around charming little shops, finding some treasures to take home, having coffee in a sweet little spot, lunching at another good place and visiting another vineyard for tasting.  This one was Leopard’s Leap and made a wine which we had had our nights in Kruger so that was fun for me.  Each place we have visited has been very different in style so great fun to see them all.  This one was quite modern with a large dining area and space for special events, and a little shop with more temptations.  I did not yield except to buy a couple of bottles of wine!

Back to our guest house with some time to get organized before dinner.  Tomorrow is Out of Africa day so it is finally time to consolidate all my purchases and clothes.  I am taking three bags home plus my backpack!  It is feeling normal to do all this packing now so I will have to adjust to closets and a set place for things when I get home!

Tonight’s dinner was an event.  Karen had made us a reservation at The Tasting Room, one of the premiere restaurants in South Africa.  I was wondering what I was doing there but really looked forward to experiencing it.  And it truly was an experience!  The restaurant itself is quite minimalistic but the food and wine for the true stars.  We had multiple courses, all chosen by the chef, with accompanying wines. Each course is carefully explained by the staff and presented in high style.  Some of the things we were having I had never heard of but it was all amazing.  Each course was quite tiny but there were so many of them!  We had octopus, wildebeest, quail – even dessert was 3 courses – cheese, 2 different desserts, and finally coffee and chocolate.  I have never had a meal like this before and probably never will again but it was great fun and another experience for the memory book.

Back at the guest house, I availed myself of the lovely big bathtub and soaked for a bit and then off to bed for my final night’s sleep in Africa!  It has been an incredible trip with such varied experiences.  It will take some time to process it all but I will do so gratefully.