Today We Get To Work  | June 15, 2008

Good morning all,                                                                                                                               At least it is morning here – who knows what time it is for you?!  This is a double email as I am writing to my group and to Women of Vision (Hi Sandy!) to cover the bases.  Thanks so much – all of you that wrote – kudos kids – you all checked in!  It means the world.  We all arrived safe and sound in stages on Saturday – bags all here and well, albeit a bit tired.  Saturday was just a get our feet on the ground kind of day.  A bit of touring the neighborhood and early to bed.  Sunday really launched our first day in Phnom Penh.  We had a lovely breakfast here at the hotel, which is air conditioned.  A huge blessing not be underestimated for you who are enjoying the lovely Oregon summer, finally!  We met Boht, the World Vision Christian witness coordinator, who took us to his church along with his wife and daughter.  A two hour service of music, a bit of Cambodian dancing (very lovely) and a translated sermon on testing and temptation.  As the pastor spoke for over an hour, he covered a great deal of ground.  After the service, we met a darling 22 year old young lady who talked with us about her passion and vision for helping her mother build a church and to provide financially for that ministry.  She works as a bank teller and gives half of her limited income to that work already!  We were so moved and inspired by her.

After a great lunch – the food here is fabulous – we headed out for the hard work of sightseeing and shopping!  We visited the King’s palace and its grounds and other buildings – very ornate and glittering and beautiful and hot!  We had a wonderful guide who added so much to the experience.  She even draped Susan in beautiful fabric and folded it to form a pants like garment.  Then she added a silver belt – Susan looked very beautiful and yes we have pictures.  The hard piece was visiting this temple which was full of hundreds of Buddhas.  The amount of gold, silver, diamonds, and other precious jewels – the floor was totally of silver and there was a Buddha carved entirely out of a single enormous emerald.  The money there and the worship was hard to see – so many Buddhas and no real help.  People were visiting a fortuneteller, drinking “holy” water to help them and we came away so grateful that the Lord does not make us jump through hoops to serve Him and more importantly, to be able to have His love and work in our lives.  To help us recover (said very flippantly) we did what all good women do, we went shopping!  We headed to the Russian market – (and no, we don’t know why it is called that!) which covered an entire city block filled with tiny booths and stalls, selling pretty much everything in the world – one could even buy an opium pot if needed!  We all helped the economy significantly but paid for it in sweat and heat and stuffy air.  Then we headed to the Foreign Correspondents’ Club for dinner – very cool.  A couple of stories up overlooking the river, ceiling fans, and a definite feel of an earlier, almost colonial time.  One kept expecting Ernest Hemingway of someone like that to trot in.  Amazing.

First impressions could fill a book but here is a short list – amazingly beautiful faces, piles of trash, smells, new construction and buildings falling apart, motor scooters everywhere with up to four people on them, tuk-tuks – the little powered carts to take one about, crazy driving and friendliness and poverty.

Today we finally start to earn our keep – visiting the World Vision office and then off the Trauma Recovery Center to visit the precious girls has rescued.  Your prayers are so vital to us and we also pray for you.  As we said in Zambia – God is good – all the time.  All the time – God is good.  We will lean on that today.

Love to you all and I will try to get more notes off later.

Heat, Heartbreak, and Healing  | June 16, 2008

Hello dear ones and WoV ladies (you can be dear ones too!),

Our first day of real World Vision work.  After breakfast here at the hotel we headed over to the WV office for a briefing on the work here in Cambodia.  The building is quite nice and we were amused by the large number of orange motor scooters in the yard.  (Orange is the WV color.)  We were briefed by a couple of wonderful women whose information was helpful but whose stories were incredible.  The first young woman was born the year after the Khmer Rouge were out.  She told us that she is inches taller than her older siblings who lived through the regime and were so poorly nourished.  She also told us that the WV national staff numbered 275 at the time the Khmer Rouge took over.  Three survived to start the work again in 1979.  The next woman, Haidy, was 5 when she and her family were warned to escape from the country as they would surely be killed.  They walked miles and miles over the border to Vietnam – were there a few years and then escaped on a boat, eventually ending up in the US.  She has now come back to work in her country and her passion and dedication put me to shame.  We will get to have more time with her later in the week and I am looking forward to that.  After another great Cambodian lunch – buffet style this time – (be sure to try the green mango salad if you ever get the chance) we headed over to the Trauma Recovery Center for girls rescued from the sex trade.  That turned out to be quite disappointing.  We had a very thorough briefing, trying to piece together the information from a power point as the English was a bit tough to follow.  We were then so looking forward to time with the girls.  Our project we had brought to do with them was to be Polaroid pics which they would then put into these little foam frames and then they could keep them.  We had been assured that they would be fine.  However, photos are not allowed so as to protect the girls (which we fully support) but they couldn’t seem to get the idea that no pictures or even negatives would be coming with us – so no project.  We just had a tour of the girls’ weaving project, some gardening, and just the smallest amount of interaction as we saw little groups of girls and went over to “talk” with them  A couple of us were blessed with hugs, which brought tears to the eyes.  As we were leaving, the girls in the play yard came up to the protective fence to see us.  Some of us went over to talk again and push hands through the wire.  It was terribly poignant and feel too symbolic to bear – we were free and they were not.  Most of the girls were very friendly and as precious as they could be but one very little one held back and was encouraged to come up to the fence.  She was tiny in stature, even by the standards here, darker skinned, with the saddest face I had ever seen.  She seemed very shy and we guessed that she was new to the project.  Her healing has not yet begun and the nightmare is still on her face.  Then we had to leave, grateful this project exists but quite sad that we didn’t have more time with those precious girls, whose suffering we cannot begin to imagine.

After a brief break to collect ourselves, we headed out to a restaurant which is run by a group which helps street children.  All the servers and cooks are rescued kids.  It was such a warm, wonderful place, especially after our previous visit.  The kids were darling, the service impeccable, and the food so delicious that three of us even sprang for dessert.

Now we plan to rest for tomorrow – our long day we we learn about a couple more projects, visit the Bamboo Shoots project, which helps street children, and then work with street children ourselves in the evening.  I am very anxious to have that time, especially after today.  The children always seem to pull at me and just being with them is seeing the heart of Jesus.  Nowhere else am I so close to God.

The Condition of Hearts  | June 17, 2008

Good morning, all,

It is a hot humid morning in Phnom Penh and we are all wondering where our ankle bones have gotten to!  Yes, it is hot but a very tiny price to pay for all that God is allowing us to see and do.  Yesterday was packed with activities which I will only be able to scratch the surface in describing.  We got off to an early start after our light breakfast in the French cafe around the corner – coffee and pastries all around.  Lovely way to start the day.

Boht met us and we headed north into an ADP area – getting there was part of the adventure as we took a ferry across the river and were bombarded with images we so wish we could capture on film.  As we were driving, some of it bouncing along a dirt road, photo opportunities were limited but Shari faithfully had her camera out the window and snapped away.

Our first visit was to a local pastor who became a Christian at 19 and has felt led to start this small church and help the people here, all with no support except God’s.  He is starting a pig bank to help out.  He took us to visit a household of 8 widows and their children.  Some of them are HIV positive.  This precious older woman was there and we had a rich “conversation” and heard her story about the time of the Khmer Rouge (heretofore the KR to save space.)  She lost a son then and the rest later.  She had 13 children and now only a few daughters survive.  Out of their poverty, they offered us coconuts with straws in them!  A bit of tart coconut milk all around.  They we walked up the muddy path a bit to a 6 person household who all live in a tiny (about the size of one of our bathrooms) hut.  This is not an exaggeration.  The wife is pregnant again and the father farms.  The children looked healthy but their means are limited in ways none of us can even imagine.  We prayed with them and felt that we were the ones blessed and prayed for.

Oh, I need to add that we first visited a site where new sponsored children were being enrolled.  That was absolutely joyful and awesome.  So many darling kids and their happy mothers – it gave us a new appreciation for the incredible value sponsorship adds to the lives of those here.  Pictures were taken, documents filled out, and thumbprints added as a signature.  Loved it.

After a rich family time with WV staff over lunch, we headed back to Phnom Penh and to the Bamboo Shoots project.  This is a residential home for up to 30 street children, most of them boys.  The staff there is amazingly dedicated and loving to these children.  We finally got to do our Polaroid project with them and that was a real kick.  The all love having their pictures taken so enthusiastic hands were waving their photos around, trying to hasten the developing.  Then we helped them frame the photos with little foam frames and then they decorated them.  Some wanted their names on them so great fun trying to phonetically sound out their Cambodian names into English letters!  Much laughter as we tried to pronounce their names and they ours. After the disappointment the previous day at the Trauma Center, this was pure joy.  The children were enthusiastic and smiling and a delight to be around.

By this time, all of us were dripping and a bit overwhelmed by the day’s experiences thus far, so we headed back to the hotel to clean up and have supper.  Then we headed out to the Street Children Project.  A few of the boys from Bamboo Shoots were mentors and to see these boys who had been as fun and goofy as the rest at the project, now turn into serious mentors and story tellers was very exciting.  The project goes around the city at night and set up sites to gather street children and show them picture stories about HIV, drug use, protection from abuse and so on.  Food is handed out and the children are checked for medical needs.  Our first stop was on a street corner – the atmosphere was moviesque as it was dark, rainy, with yellow street lights. Then add in the piles of garbage dumped in the street for people to go through for food or items to sell, and you get a hint of the environment.  Do add in the smells.  We learned that most of these children do have homes and families but travel as far as 10 kilometers each morning, pulling carts, rummage through the garbage for what they can find all day, and then pull the carts back about 10 at night.  The next day they get up at 4 or 5 and do it all over again.  The stuff of heartbreak.  Our next site was even harder – today is a national holiday and this stop was right across the street from the Royal Palace, all lit up for the festivities.  We were with the street vendors who just live and sleep right there under an open market roof – one mother with AIDS was there with her 2 year old baby which we all first thought was about 4 months old.  It is impossible to describe the scene and do it justice or adequately describe the feelings that raged.  Compassion, anger, disgust at the surroundings these people endure.  At first I felt a sense of despair – what can I do about this?  I realize personally, almost nothing.  However, it renewed my passion to return home and tell the stories over and over – as God’s people, we are called to do all we can to help.  I know I am preaching to the choir here – this is mainly for me to remember and keep what has been entrusted to me.

I know this is long but the day was full of so much.  Thank you for your continued prayers – God is here and with us and with those we are seeing and loving.

Not An Easy Read – Not An Easy Day  | June 18, 2008

Today is hard to talk about – we visited the Killing Fields in the morning and the Tuel Sleng Museum in the afternoon.  The horror of man’s inhumanity to man never ceases to appall and sadden.  Hopefully it will also move me to action when I hear of other situations that still occur.  This one, though, was so mindless, with seemingly arbitrary killing for killing’s sake and the very young or old were not spared.

The Killing Fields site is a short distance from Phnom Penh and is where people from this area were brought to be executed.  The famous sutra with all the skulls is there, as well as many depression in the ground which are mass graves.  It is a sad and quiet place with lovely butterflies fluttering over the grass now.  We had a very helpful guide who explained the situation very well.  I will spare you all the details, but it is a place of remembrance.

The museum, on the other hand, screams and yells.  It was once a public high school which the KR turned into a torture and interrogation center for the stated purpose of finding the educated and unsuitable people so as to eliminate them as they would not fit into the agrarian paradise they imagined.  The classrooms were divided into tiny cells and the abomination of that made me ill.  We saw much but the rows and rows of pictures that were taken of the victims as mug shots when they arrived, were wrenching, especially those of the children.  Again, I will not continue – my heart is full and going out to dinner tonight seems very frivolous but God is still God – we are alive to bear witness and we are eating with a women who works here so we can hear her story – more information to help us better serve, educate, and advocate.

I promise my next email will be lighter but I needed to “talk” this out a bit.  My gratitude for my God and my life overflows.  Thank you all for being a part of that life.  (To my family – I am praying for you all in these days of Dad.  I love you all so much.)

Boys Are Gold – Girls Are Cloth  | June 19, 2008

Thanks to those of you I am hearing from.  I am very grateful for your notes, love, and prayers.  All is well here and we continue to learn so much, eat very well, perspire a great deal, (my college PE teacher used to tell that women do not sweat, they glow!  Oh that that were true!), and support NGO shops with great zeal. It only gets into the high 80s each day, but the humidity is extreme, faithfully kept there by a brief daily deluge.  My ankles make a short appearance in the morning and then leave me for the rest of the day.

Before I go into events, let me try and give a brief snapshot of life here.  The streets teem with motor scooters and cars – the scooters dash in and out wherever they can find an opening.  Helmets are rarely seen and up to 5 people have been spotted on one scooter!  No crashes yet.  It is like one big dance or as our WV friend said, it is a great river that just flows.  Lanes seem to be just general suggestions and stop signs are optional.  People are tiny, and I have yet to see an overweight Cambodian.  Life is lived by the streets, in little booths that sells everything needed for daily life.  Beautiful little children dart in and out.  There are smells, color, activity.

The subject line of this note is a picture of how the different sexes are viewed here.  IF gold is dropped in the mud, it is unchanged but if a cloth is dropped, it becomes soiled and irredeemable.  That is the difference between boys and girls.  This is slowly changing here and we were delighted to hear that a few of the girls from the Trauma Recovery program have married but that is certainly not the norm.  Last evening we had dinner with 3 volunteers who work with the Hagar program (check you Bible for that story) and they work with women and children.  We had a wonderful evening with these 3 dedicated Kiwis.  One had just returned from 6 weeks in LA where she had taken 7 girls who testified at the trial of an American pervert.  He was found guilty!!  Cheers all around!!  She works in preparing girls who need to go to court and testify, as well as helps others with counseling.  Her husband is in charge of production programs which provide jobs for needy people.  The other woman, Sue, works with children in crisis and runs numerous programs.  They were delightful people and we so admired their commitment to Cambodia and the least of these.  It is also wonderful to see the interaction between many NGOs (non-governmental organizations) to accomplish the work.

Today we spent the morning being briefed on programs related to peace and justice issues – learned so much.  The highlight was meeting and hearing the story of a young women who now works for WV.  She had been trafficked at age 13 and spent 3 years of her life in the brothel before escaping.  She spent time at the Trauma Recovery Center and today works there, helping other girls who know she understands what they have been through.  She stayed with us throughout the afternoon and it was such fun to watch her warm up to us and see her leave with smiles and hugs.  What a privilege for us to meet this heroic young woman.

Tomorrow we head out to the ADP to see our sponsored children.  We are very excited and are so looking forward to the time.  God continues to show His face and I just pray to be found faithful.  I am realizing that the statement, to whom much is given, much will be required, is not just about material blessings.  I have been given a wealth of information and experiences – let me do all that is required.

I am off to bed.  My heart is full as well as my stomach and that is no small blessing!

Beautiful Children and Blessed Women  | June 20, 2008

Today we headed out of Phnom Penh, into the countryside to primarily visit our sponsored children.  It was a beautiful drive as we got out of the city – emerald green rice paddies – that green that Oregon get in March when just looking out the window is a joy – a small range of hills – palm trees for exclamation marks – oxen – carts – people working the fields.  After arriving at the ADP office, we had a briefing on their work and then the Vision Project overview.  Vision Project deals with microenterprise here.  It was all very interesting but ran over the scheduled time so I was growing increasingly anxious to go see the children, who were just next door!  Finally the meeting was over (I don’t think any of my dear colleagues felt my glares when they asked additional questions!) and we gathered our gifts and headed into see the kids.  They were all in a large open room with a parent or parents or entire families.  Joy abounded, at least on our parts.  My darling Chantra was so precious.  Her father was with her as her mother is unable to walk or travel well.  Chandra is 8 and is quite shy and reserved, but the smiles came and gifts were shared and pictures shown.  This same scene was being played out all around me so it was such fun to look up and see all of loving this time.  After visiting time, we all walked across the road to a restaurant for a group dinner.  This was a special treat for our families and they really dug in!  Chantra ate twice what I did and then held her stomach for a bit afterward.  A little more time was given for final words, pictures, and at times, tearful goodbyes – all on our parts.  Truly a rich time.

Then we headed to a village to see its holding pond, bore hole, and some other sanitation projects.  Our last steps were to visit two people who had received microfinance loans and to hear their stories – this program is so valuable and the success rate of repaid loans  is over 99%!  Amazing!

We hoped into our faithful van to head back to the city – our driver has been wonderful and we think having a driver is the way to go!  On the way home, the heavens open and the rains poured down. There were wonderful thunder and lightning effects but the rain overwhelmed the streets and we watched, in comfort, as the scooters and bicycles made their way through some inches of rain.  The rains really slowed the traffic down but we kept moving.  At one point we turned onto a street which quickly became a river.  Our van has high clearance and a great driver but we watched children walking along with water up to their knees!  It was actually good to see this as it gives us an idea of what they have to deal with during the really season, why houses are built on stilts, and why street people suffer so much.  After dinner, we are not all packing and preparing to head to the airport tomorrow morning for a quick flight up to Siem Reap – the site of Angkor Wat.  Can you believe that we are doing this?  I can’t.  Thank you again for your faithful prayers   Today was a rich day, and it was a delight to know that God was smiling.

Out of Phnom Penh  | June 21, 2008

Today we got up hot and early and headed to the airport, arriving at 7:30 for a 9:30 departure to Siem Reap, the site of Angkor Wat .  Checking in was a piece of cake and we were very grateful as some of us have two pieces of luggage (blush, blush) and weight is getting to be an issue as our economic improvement program is going at full tilt.

The flight was less than an hour so Brett and I managed not to fight during the entire flight!  I have neglected introducing Brett Newman, who joined us on Wed.  He is Shari’s stepson and an absolute delight to have around.  A bit of a masculine presence is a relief! but he is a rare gem in that he just graduated high school and is still willing to travel around Cambodia with a bunch of crazy women!  Older men would quell at the thought, but Brett rushes in and we all adore him.

Our guest house here is just lovely – cool (an incredible relief) where we were met with a refreshing drink and the plan for our time here.  After getting settled in, we had lunch at their restaurant and then headed out for a boat trip down the local river, Siem Reap River, which empties into the huge Tonle Sap Lake. It was fascinating as there is a whole boat culture which lives on the river in floating “homes.”  There is a school, shops, a couple of churches, a platform for bike riding and all that is needed for life floating on platforms on the river.  Little brown, bare babies were running around, long, low boats paddled by with various goods, children splashed in the mud brown water.  An amazing sight – we stopped briefly at a floating shop and restaurant to view the crocodile pen ( thrills all around!) and see the fish farm fish fed – which meant they all roiled to the top and splashed us with who knows what!  It is best not to think too deeply on this.

After we returned to the hotel we made an abortive attempt to head out to the temples for sunset but the skies opened so we just purchased our passes for tomorrow and are enjoying the extra minutes to clean up and cool off.  We are still sweating, not glowing! Tonight we head out to see a cultural program and have dinner.  Again, the food continues to prove to be wonderful and inexpensive.  A combo not to be beat!

Well, I will head off so I can shower and not offend all my companions tonight.

Angkor What?  | June 22, 2008

The sun rose on us at the foot of Angkor Wat as we watched it come up over the temple.  We left the guest house at 5 this morning and soon arrived at Angkor – there is a long balustraded walking over a canal with the temple in front of you.  There really aren’t words to describe it.  The sheer artistry and detail and hard labor is amazing.  (I really need a new list of superlatives.)  We watched the sun come up with other diehard tourists but it didn’t diminish the experience.  As a Christian, it is so interesting to be on ground which holy to another faith – it still felt holy and I know we brought God with us.  Worship here is interesting as it seems to be a combination of Hinduism and Buddhism.  Buddha reigns here though.

After sunrise, we headed into the temple proper and toured seeing the rooms, the reliefs, other temples.  The first one was magnificent in its ruin.  It was shady (thank you, Lord!) and overgrown with huge trees which convoluted around and about the temple walls.  Think Indiana Jones or Lara Croft – Tomb Raiders, which was actually filmed here in part.  I mention this only because it is now the main claim to fame for this site.  We were rather overrun by Japanese tourists whose main goal was photos at the movie’s key locations.  We fit in where we could, but it was still incredible.

The next temple saw a few of us climbing to the top – not nearly as harrowing as it sounds – only the small top section required any stone climbing – the rest was just a rather steep wooden stairway.  Although we all almost suffered heat stroke, it was well worth it!  We have pictures to prove it so please ask – we are dying to show them to you!  The last temple we visited was filled with all these four side pillars with a huge face of Buddha on each side – absolutely fascinating.  Ask us about kissing the Buddha – don’t worry – it required no compromise of our faith!  At this point, we were all able to wring our shirts out if we desired but we abstained – Brett was quite grateful!  We took our hot sweltering selves back and inflicted ourselves upon the forbearing staff and had lunch.  Brett commented at lunch, that he didn’t think he had ever done so many things before one o’clock, in his life before!  Most of us bailed at that point to shower and nap – wonderful.

After nap time we headed to the Artisan who again to pick up things we had seen the previous day.  To the reading audience who doesn’t know – one of my sons is getting married in the fall so I have been putting together my wedding outfit here and found the last piece at this shop.  It has been such fun as all my friends give input.  I should look dazzling!

Supper took us to the Siem Reap Foreign Correspondents’ Club and then a tuk-tuk ride to the Night Market.  I love the tuk-tuks!  They are motorcycle driven little carts and they cut in and out of the traffic – you are right in the middle of the streets and their life, with the breeze blowing – it was delightful.  I only want to ride in tuk-tuks from now on!

Tomorrow, we catch an early flight to Bangkok and meet with WV again there.  We will miss Laura, a lovely young college senior from Pennsylvania who is doing an 8 week internship here, teaching English, primarily to teachers.  We met her our first night and she was able to join us all day today.  We really enjoyed getting to know her a bit.

I am off to pack and get to bed before too late. as it was an early morning and an enjoyable last night here.

Goodbye from Cambodia.

Why Do Americans Love Children So Much?  | June 23, 2008

Hello precious friends and family,

I am missing you some but candidly our time is so full I am not homesick at all – just wish you could share some of the adventures directly.

The subject line question was asked of Susan while we were out in the ADP in Cambodia.  I am glad people here know we love children but it also shows the prevailing attitude toward children who are often seen as just another mouth to fee and are expected to earn their keep – literally, as soon as possible, which is age 6 or 8 or so.  Kids, are you getting this?  It explains great deal about all that happens here when children are seen as a burden or a commodity.

This morning we quickly breakfasted at our lovely guest house, said good-bye to our sweet new friend, Laura, and flew to Bangkok.  We are all experiencing some culture shock as Bangkok is New York City in Asia.  Skyscrapers everywhere (not a one in Phnom Penh), traffic following the British pattern, some semblance of obeying the rules of the road, a number of scooters, but many more cars and no tuk-tuks!  I am in mourning.  American businesses abound – yuck! but the one ray of light in all of that is there is Starbucks!  (You may groan but there is a little joy in my heart that I can have my first tall nonfat no whip mocha since leaving West Linn!)  There are still the little elements like street vendors to make one feel that she is in a foreign place but we are all missing Cambodia.  However, after lunch, we went to WV headquarters here and heard an excellent presentation on children’s issues and saw a couple of short DVDs which first broke the heart and then offered some hope.  A statistic – there are more malnourished children in India alone than in all of Africa.  I give that, not because we don’t want to continue to support everything we can in Africa, but just to show comparatively little is being done in this part of the world.  The awareness is not there so we were grateful for all the info.  Another stat – there are more slaves now than the total number transported from Africa during those awful days.  Please pray for us who now have this knowledge, that we will be faithful stewards of what we have been given, but also that we will share with kindness and wisdom, as we all want to stand on a street corner and yell out for change.  Families – don’t worry – we won’t but the impact of all we have heard is huge.

I continue to enjoy the multinational nature of WV as we had a Sri Lankan, an Aussie, and an American at the table with us today.  A Thai gentlemen came in to deal with the universal problem of computer issues.  The incredibly high caliber of people working for WV continues to impress me and shows the way God has chosen to bless this organization which serves Him.

Our hotel is very nice, but we are not here much – tomorrow we head out to an ADP at 6:30 and won’t return until 10 at night.  Should be a great day and it will be lovely to get out of Bangkok.  I won’t be able to write tomorrow as the computer center’s hours won’t work for me due to our long day.  Sorry – I’ll get a new one off ASAP.  In just a short while we are taking one of the WV staff on a dinner river cruise – a true hardship for all of us.

Please continue to pray for us as we do for you.  We are learning so much, experiencing so much, jumping around to so many varied cultures.  However, the climate is constant (HOT!) so I should be thankful for that!  Be gentle with us when we return home – we are changed by what we have seen and heard and will be seeking God’s heart for what we do with our knowledge and where to go next.

You are dearly loved.

So Long, Farewell  | June 25, 2008

This will be my last email that includes the Women of Vision.  It has been joy to share this trip with you all.  Tomorrow we go our separate ways – LuAnn, Susan, and Alice back to the US, Dorothy to Hong Kong, and Shari, Brett and myself to Vietnam!  Wow!  It will be a bit hard to “break up” after our time together.  I have learned so much from my traveling companions and admire so many things about each one – youth and enthusiasm, a sense of adventure and willingness to try anything, wisdom, patience, humor and an undivided heart for God, kindness, sweetness, love of children and beauty both inside and out.  What a joy to travel with these women and young man.

I will backtrack a bit.  Monday evening we headed out on a dinner river cruise (and no I don’t know the name of the river and probably couldn’t pronounce it if I did!)  We were met by two stunning Thai young women in costume who very efficiently pinned as orchid on each of us and took our picture with one of them (to be purchased at the end of the cruise, thank you very much.)  Getting onto the boat, we were serenaded with a “Welcome, Welcome, Welcome” song – very funny.  The buffet was enjoyable but the best part was going onto the top deck and watching the lighted temples and palace go by.  There was also this stunning bridge of pillars and cables – we all had fun trying to get cool shots of it.  There were some highly entertaining moments but those will have to wait for personal sharing!

The next day we got off early (what else is new?) and headed out into the countryside to visit an ADP on the Thai/Cambodian border.  They work with children who come over either legally or illegally.  It is an area of a great deal of trafficking.  The poor Cambodians come across with empty carts, buy things at the market in Thailand, and drag those incredibly loaded and heavy carts back to sell the items and make a bit of money.  Their children come as well and some children come on their own.  We visited the project WV has where children can have classes while their parents work – heartbreakingly beautiful children – I got to play with one little guy on the floor.  At first he steadfastly ignored me but gradually I started dueling building blocks with him and even got a smile – a worthwhile day.  We also met these charming little ones who carry umbrellas to shade visitors and hope for a few baht in return.  They play tag with the police all ay as they are not supposed to hassle people.  We adored them and one was named Attie (not sure about the spelling) so I showed her my At’s picture – smiles all around.  There were also children garbage picking for food and recyclables to sell.  Too hard and brought us near to the heart of God.  In a book I am now reading there was a quotation from Dostoyevsky – “The soul is healed by being with children.”  It does but it can also break the heart as we want every child to be loved and cherished and well cared for and so very many are not.  It was an incredibly valuable day – full of the frequent stabs of joy and shafts of grief.

It was also along day as it took 7 hours round trip so we all opted for a late dinner near the hotel – Italian food in Bangkok!  Greatly enjoyed by all as it was our last dinner all together.  Today we got off to an early start (do you see a theme here?) and became tourists again as we drove a shorter distance to see two floating markets – the first one was mainly for the local people and was long, low boats filled with food stuffs – people were even cooking on the boats so we sampled some things – coconut pancakes were my favorite.  The women were all older and charming but pointed out that the young do not want to live like this so this way of life may die out when this generation is gone.  That would be very sad as it seems like a sweet and decent life.  The next place we visited put us in the boats was definitely geared toward tourists – we motored along narrow canals with boats pushing against each other, much like the traffic dance in Cambodia.  Many of the shops were on shore and hooks would be shot out to capture boats so the highly touristy wares could be hawked.  It was fun to see but felt rather like a rundown Disney attraction.  We all preferred the first market.

After lunch at a totally Thai restaurant (we were the only white people there and where I had a few bad moments after some way too spicy soup – think running eyes and nose – burning lips, mouth, and throat and a stomach that instantly yelled “WHAAAT IS THIS???  I recovered quickly but am disgusted with my wimpy Western palate and how’s that for a run on sentence?)  We headed slowly back into Bangkok – the traffic here is terrific and the only ray of hope is that the lights count down so one does know it will change at a given point.  Whether or not you get through, is another issue.

This afternoon, we have gone our separate ways – some still faithfully shopping, a couple off to do art, one resting and me typing to you after a rejuvenating Starbucks break – a little coffee, a little Jill time, and a good book.  Now I am ready for our evening out at another buffet : ) and a cultural program which, of course, is the best in the nation.

Brett, Shari, and I leave the hotel at 5 tomorrow morning so I hope it will not be a late night.  Thank you for traveling this far with me – my heart and mind are full and the stories and lessons, pictures, experiences will last forever and into eternity, I hope.  Thank you for your faithful prayers and notes.  Again – God is good – all the time.

Good Morning, Vietnam!  | June 26, 2008

It was a dark and stormy night, with the black streets steaming in the sultry heat.  In the small teeming cafe, the three Americans sipped their drinks as a Dutch couple chatted next to them and beautiful Vietnamese women scurried about.

That was last night and it really did feel like something out of a book or a movie!  We got off to an EARLY start yesterday to fly here to Hanoi.  Up at 4:30 to head out to the airport.  The hotel told us to allow an hour and a half to get there, due to traffic.  We made it in 25 minutes.  However, what with check-in, passport control, security, and a lovely cup of coffee and a pastry, time really did pass quickly.  The flight was uneventful but we were not able to fully appreciate our exit row seats as we were unconscious most of the time.

We were met at the airport and driven to our hotel which is right in the center of the old quarter of Hanoi.  I love this place already – very different from either Cambodia or Thailand – much greener, tree lined streets and the French influence is everywhere.  The streets still teem with little sidewalk markets and scooters abound.  There is a market right across the street from the hotel and I can look out and see beautiful people scurrying about the day’s business.

Today we head to Halong Bay for three days so I will be out of touch for a bit.  I can’t begin to totally anticipate what is ahead as the pictures already take the breath away. I will write again when we get back.

A Hint of Heaven in Halong Bay  | June 29, 2008

Imagine a mountain range with rounded peaks, of varying heights, robed in green with occasional sheer cliffs thrown in for accents and then fill it all up with water so just the tops show.  Then place yourself on a three story junk, with tiny air conditioned rooms, a bath that was WAS the shower, meals on the second deck in  roomy rattan cushioned chairs, meals so extraordinary that  we took photos (I must take a vegetable carving class when I get home!) throw in 4 charming Aussies, and get just the finest hint of where we have been the past 3 days.

We left Hanoi Friday morning and arrived at the junk about midday.  We set off immediately, after using the gangplank of one boat and them climbing over the side to our boat!  Sorry – no photos of that!  We were met with apricot drinks and cold wet cloths.  We motored into the bay through ll of these peaks, with the view changing  very second as rocks “moved” to reveal others or to cover some.  Our meals were in tiny courses, e.g. three beautifully prepared prawns, one for each of us, but then there were 6-10 courses!  That afternoon we went out on our first kayaking experience after visiting a large series of caves – say Tourist Attraction! – we shuffled through with the hoards, but it was still awesome and beautiful to see – there were some very humorous formations but I will not go into that now!  We were glad to rebound and head out.  The water is glassy smooth and green so kayaking was a delight.  That day we paddled around some and then went to a beach and swam – a number of other people were there as well – we also climbed to the top of that particular rock and 400 steps later, had a spectacular view.  Supper was breathtakingly beautiful – I “dressed” for dinner in my long sundress and funky jewelry and felt VERY worldly and well traveled!  All the food we ate was fresh and all the seafood was caught there in the bay.  Dinner was also memorable due to a terrific thunderstorm with driving rain and lightening strikes lighting up the entire bay and surrounding peaks – an incredible time all around.

Saturday saw us out kayaking again – this time into various lagoons which were reached by paddling into tunnels through the rocks, with ceilings barely head high at points but mostly a bit higher than I could reach – there were small stalag (mites or tites.  I can never remember which ones come down from the ceiling!)  Those of you who know me well would think this situation would completely freak me out, but it didn’t – I absolutely love it (they were short tunnels) and they took us into these magical lagoons – truly the stuff of paradise or Indiana Jones, depending on your outlook.  The last lagoon we visited was full of jellyfish!  They were swimming all around us – I got a beautiful white one on my paddle briefly – it immediately shed some tentacles as a defensive move, so I quickly popped it back into the water.  We stopped at one tiny beach, just the 7 of us this time (yeah!) and Shari, Brett and I saw about a quarter mile to another beach and then back – it felt great.  The water is warm and wonderful to swim in.

After another terrific lunch, we kicked back for a bit and then went out again – it was raining lightly most of the day, but because it was so warm, it was fun to be out in it.  We paddled by a floating village of fishermen.  However, that felt a bit culturally voyeuristic to me so I was glad when we went past and just paddled around the peaks, close to their bases where the water has worn out little caves. We kayaked until late afternoon.  Then, upon returning to the boat, we cleaned up for dinner and to celebrate one of our travel mate’s birthdays – a very fun evening.

The next morning some had a brief time of kayaking, but I choose to pop back into the water for a swim to some nearby rocks – and then some Sunday time on the top deck, taking in His creation, being grateful for so much, and reading through Philippians to feel connected with church.

We were back at the dock by midday – overwhelmed by the time there.  In addition to all the amazing experiences, there have been some significant additions to the Jill Sherman Bruise Collection – this one from climbing into the kayak, this from climbing out of the kayak etc – you get the picture – all totally worth it!  We were ready to move on, but I found it so liberating to be on board – no makeup, just let the hair dry on its own – barefoot the entire time.  Never fear – I won’t do this at home!

On the way back to Hanoi, we continued to pass motor scooters which are everywhere.  I must tell about these.  They, of course, carry people but also animals.  We have seen cows, yes, cows! still living and tied on the back, baskets of chickens or ducks, piggies,and sadly some dogs.  (No, we have not eaten dog!  Please reassure Einstein and Doug!)

Back at the hotel, we dumped our stuff and walked over to the Hanoi Hilton – again a very sobering place.  Only a part of the original is there but the story is told.  It was originally a prison built by the French to control the Vietnamese resistance – a place of utter horror for those imprisoned there.  Then, starting in 1965 until 1973, American pilots were kept there.  That display is very interesting, showing many of the uniforms and accessories the Americans had.  The flight suit of John McCain is prominently displayed.  He was shot down over a small lake here in Hanoi.  The spin was, by contrast with the French, was that the Vietnamese treated the Americans very well and generously.  It has been fascinating to talk with people here about how they view Americans.  They really like us because we generally are friendly and generous.  They still hate the French!  But they won what they call the American War.

That evening we went out for another fabulous meal – getting to be almost a cliche but true.  Walking the streets is such fun, with all the tiny sidewalk markets and salespeople.  Crossing the road is an adventure of sliding smoothly between motos – they know the dance so we are learning.  I did inform Brett and Shari that I have a copy of my Advance Directives with me!  Today we toured Ho Chi Minh Square with our guide Hai Hai – very interesting but also VERY HOT!  Much of the walking was out in the open and then we hiked over a mile to our cooking class.  At that point, I was at pretty low ebb but inside it was cool and the woman who taught the class was a revelation – a charming young woman who runs several businesses, is married to an Aussie and is expecting her second child.  We loved our time there and have brought home the recipes.

Tomorrow Brett and Shari leave for home and I am here until late Wed.  I plan to go on an overnight trekking trip up to a little village where I will spend the night.  It should be another great time and yes, I will have a guide and won’t be on my own, Mom!

Although this has been pure holiday time, all the previous experiences continue to inform all that I do.  I love Hanoi and Vietnam, but also see the enormous need of the love of God as most here have no faith of any kind.  The people are kind and cheerful and prospering overall but lack what makes life truly full.

I am getting ready to come home.  I am a bit weary and so full of this trip that I need to balance it with routine and nothing particularly new.  Can’t wait to see you all!  I’ll be home on Thursday afternoon, prior to the time I leave Seoul!

Keep On Trekking  | July 02, 2008

This is the last installment of “Where in Southeast Asia is Jill Sherman?”  Today’s answer is back in Hanoi.  I have been out into the hill country hiking for the last two days – the mountains looked rather like Halong Bay but without the water.

Tuesday morning I left with my guide just before Brett and Shari headed to the airport.  I have really missed them already, especially on this trek as I was the only Westerner.  We drove until noon, lunch, and then set out into the hills.  I had been described as easy terrain, and it was – an easy upgrade for the first half or so, the sun beating down, and the usual 90% humidity.  After asking myself what I had gotten myself into, I settled down and did enjoy it.  We arrived at a little hill village were it has been arranged for tourists to spend the night.  The houses are all up on stilts and surrounded by lush vegetation.  Much of what they eat is right outside the door.  Chickens and dogs roam about, with the occasional water buffalo thrown in for good measure.  The buffalo also kept guard by the outhouse, which made camping outhouses look like plush accommodations!  The less said there, the better!  I had supper on mats on the floor with my guide, another guide we used to get there, and the local committee head guy.  Me and the three guys!  Quite the meal – most of it was quite good and things I was sued to but the plate of chicken came out with ALL the parts and I do mean all.  I watched in morbid fascination as one of the men crunched away on the head, beak and all!  Luckily, I was not asked to eat any of that. We also traded “Cheers!” and “Bottoms Up!” in their tongue as we tossed back shots of sago wine.  I left the competition quite early but the others hung in there until most of the liter bottle was gone – no sketchy behavior though.  They really needed the wine because the headman went into the kitchen and returned with some cooked mice, tails and all and dropped them into the pot!  He had found them not he road as he came up to the village!  Unbelievable – I felt like I was in an Indiana Jones movie where they were served bizarre foods.  The guys actually ate the mice!

Bed was an inch thick mat with a sheet and pillow – mosquito netting was draped about, as well.  I slept surprisingly well but woke early to the rooster choir warming up, the buffalo lowing, and the voices of people as they headed out to the rice paddies very early.  After a lovely Western style breakfast, we hiked back out – this time down through the paddies and fields – amazing but very narrow and muddy – my Keens will never be the same!  But I didn’t fall and kept up.  I think, at first, my guide was worried that I wouldn’t be able to do it but thankfully managed quite well.  Our drive back was uneventful, if any drive here can be considered that!  I love watching the scooters glide in and out utterly fearless and seemingly clueless at times too!  The ones on their cell phones are the best!

Now I am back at the hotel, showered and organized.  I will head out for a last supper here, stroll the lake a bit and head to the airport at 8.  My flight is at 11, to Seoul, and then on to Seattle and home.

I am too tired and full of things to reflect much.  It has been an incredible trip, God has been so faithful and present, and Now I am really ready to get back to the West and my family and friends.

Love to you all, so much.  Thank you for joining me on this journey.