Bangladesh Finally | May 9, 2014

Hello friends,
On the road again – or more accurately, in the air again. I am sitting on the plane ready to take off for Dubai and then on to Dhaka, Bangladesh.
On the last trip, I stopped writing in Oxford. I am not still there! I did actually make it home after a final weekend in London which included the locking up of the Tower at night – great experience.
But now it’s on to Bangladesh. First a little story on how I got to be on this trip. More than a year ago, I was scheduled for another trip to Bangladesh and less than a week out, the trip was cancelled due to unrest in the country. A great disappointment at the time.
Fast forward to this year – the original trip was rescheduled for this coming November but it seemed unlikely I could go on that one. However, our church was hoping to go in May. My name was in the hat and I thought I would go, but plans changed and it was a No!
Then life happened and my mom died and there was all the activities attendant to that – time with her before she died, plans, then the burial and memorial service plus out of town company to take care of. Right in the middle of that, I was called and asked if I would like to go on this trip. I now knew the date and there was a possible conflict with something I wanted to do to help my kids. I said a tentative no but hoped there was a chance of being kind of an alternate or still book and just wait and see.

Now a brief departure – it really does relate! My only granddaughter, Emma, loves the Disney movie, Brave. The heroine, Merida, is a confident, capable Scottish lass. Near the end of the movie, suitors have gathered to shoot for Merida’s hand in marriage. She comes out with her own bow and arrow and declares, “I will shoot for my own hand!”. Emma picked up on that line and would often pretend to be drawing an arrow and would also declare, “I will shoot for my own hand!” I loved that about her so it was often in my mind.

Back to the story – Sunday evening I gave my tentative No. Almost first thing the next morning, I heard from a dear friend. She had been offered the spot on the trip. I was so happy for her and ready to just accept that that was that. But just a short couple of hours later, my kids sent an email and said they really wanted me to go on this trip! I quickly called the trip coordinator to see if I could still be added but was soon told No. Misery descended. I couldn’t believe I had missed this opportunity by just a few hours! I spent the rest of the day feeling very sorry for myself. During the night I woke up and was still in self- pity mode. “Why won’t someone fight for me?” I whined to God. And then He spoke to me – “why don’t you shoot for your own hand? Why don’t you fight for yourself?”. My attitude completely changed and I decided that, next morning, I would fight. I also must add, that even on my miserable day, God kept telling me I was going to go on this trip. Now that doesn’t happen to me very often and I really tried to ignore it, chalking it up to wishful thinking on my part. I was even told to go get passport pictures taken for my visa application. I kept saying no but finally went, thinking I would only put them in drawer for another trip. Such great faith I had!
Next morning, I put in another call to our coordinator, told him my story and asked if we could fight for this trip. He said he would try but there were several hoops to jump through. After I hung up, I was very peaceful. No matter the outcome, I had tried. The day went by, a bit slowly I must admit. At 4:30 my phone rang and the first words I heard were, “It’s a go!”. After profuse thanks and some tears, I hung up, not quite knowing what to do with this incredible blessing that had been dropped in my lap! I quite literally wanted to throw myself on the floor, at the feet of Jesus. My heart was full to overflowing and it still is.
Little more than a month has passed since then and we are on our way.

Air Time | May 9, 2014

Ok – got the story out of the way. Now, why am I going on this trip and why does it matter so much to me? Unlike the first trip, this is not a World Vision trip only. I am traveling with a small group from my church, to visit WV projects in Bangladesh. Our church has had partnerships with WV projects in Senegal and Zambia previously. However, our work is done in Senegal and almost done in Zambia. Therefore we are looking for a new project and thus we are headed to SE Asia. Our mission, (which we have chosen to accept!) is to see what the needs are and whether this is a work that could use us. The focus is on child protection. We will be visiting child friendly spaces, which are places run by WV where children, who live with their mothers in the brothels, can come and receive education, protection, food, and positive attention. We will visit a couple of trafficking survivors and places where street children live and work. Another stop will take us to the border with India where trafficking victims are regularly brought across. There is more scrutiny of DVDs crossing the border than people. All in all, it is a huge privilege to be on this trip but we need your prayers as much of what we will see is from the darkest underbelly of humanity.
This matters so much to me because of the huge need for child protection worldwide. When I visited Cambodia back in 2008, my eyes were opened to the nightmare of trafficking and modern slavery. I learned so much and have learned more since then. But the head knowledge is small compared to the heart knowledge. Since 2008, I have added 5 grandchildren to my family. The presence of these infinitely precious children has only increased my passion on this issue. Each child deserves the deep love and care my 5 receive daily.

That is the why and what. Now for a bit of progress so far. We took off from Portland and had an anti-climatic flight to Seattle. There we boarded our flight to Dubai and the real adventure began. We are traveling on Emirates Airlines – a very lovely airline. Todd, a fellow traveler, and I shared a row of 3 seats – a bit of luxury. I blessedly slept a nice chunk of the 14 hour flight, so the time passed quite well – some sleep, a marginal movie, some reading, some meals and we were in Dubai. Somewhere along the way, a large piece of Friday disappeared and we arrived Friday evening. As part of our travel deal, we got rooms at the airport hotel so got to crash for a few hours. With some sleep and a hot shower(!) under our belts, we are now on our flight to Dhaka. Unlike the previous leg, this plane is packed. Going down the escalator to our boarding area, the crowd started to back up and there was a bit of a pile up at the end. We watched,with some alarm, as we headed into the pack. I was about ready to turn and start climbing back up the moving stairs, when the crowd pushed back and made room for us. Our adrenalin rush for the morning! Also good prep for the crowded conditions of Bangladesh. [note: Bangladesh has more than half the population of the US crowded into a country the size of Iowa!]
The Dubai airport is huge and very luxurious. Many people seem to shop here so there were people boarding the plane with at least 6 duty free bags! Jill, you are not in the US anymore! Our group of 7 is part of a very small white minority- so good.
My aisle seat, on the plane, seemed to be at a stopping point so I kept getting buffeted with bags, backpacks,and even the occasional behind! Very funny!
Next stop will be Dhaka – our destination.

Dhaka First Impressions | May 10, 2014

Dhaka – capital city of Bangladesh and home to more than 7 million people.  We arrived Sat morning at about 8:45. Deplaning was a pushing, shoving, bumping kind of thing as so many people with so many bags all wanted off at the same time!  Always such fun to people watch. Off through immigration and then a lengthy time of bag collection.  All but one of our bags made it and it was to arrive late last evening.  Joy for me – I’m always so happy to see my suitcase. I feel that I am then ready to do the trip.

We were greeted by our wonderful WV donor liaison, George Sarkar, with a small bouquet of flowers and a card for each of us!  So dear and welcoming. Much more on him as the week goes by as he is with us all the time.  Suffice it to say, he is cut from the same cloth as WV staff the world over – incredible gifted serving people who love the Lord.

A ride in the familiar WV van took us to our hotel.  The drive was our first exposure to Dhaka – much traffic, Bristish style, and the usual honking, lane guessing, challenging driving I have seen so many places.  It always makes me laugh and very grateful I am not driving!  Dhaka is so different than I imagined – relatively little trash, many lovely trees and small green spaces, rivers through the city, a mix of older poorer buildings and some large and new ones that would be at home in NYC.  There are many people about and the women are so lovely and colorful in saris and tunics.  Many heads are covered but not all and we saw the occasionally full black burka.  As we were often stopped in traffic the beggars and street vendors pushed over to the van. We, with our white skin, are prime targets.  Did we want to buy a map, magazines, fruit, towels (!)?  There are also bicycle rickshaws everywhere. With tourist eyes, they are charming and fun to see – each one decorated by its owner in bright colors and patterns. However, through my other eyes, I also see men working oh so hard in the heat and the crowding traffic to earn a very little each day.  The dichotomy of a developing nation.

As we approached our hotel, we passed loops and coils of wire just strung along the street – cable!  Amazing.  Our hotel is absolutely beautiful. That is so often the disconnect on these trips – we get to live in air-conditioned luxury while we look out our 10th floor windows to people working and living in the heat and reduced circumstances.  It never gets easier and I often ask why did I get such a comfortable good life?  There is certainly no greater intrinsic worth – that is for sure!
We got settled on – my roommate is my dear friend Susan, so that is a treat. We then had lunch at the “Italian” restaurant here at the hotel. Very good. Then we set out to do what we do so well – shop. George took as t a craft market that supports people and projects here so we did our best to help out! Back to the hotel for some much needed R & R and then supper with George in another hotel restaurant – this one a lovely buffet with many local dishes. I made the very unwelcome discovery that most of the dishes are too spicy for me so I will have to watch what I eat. I hate that about me!
After supper, we all headed to an early and very welcome bed.

I will post this now as we are off for the day and out of wi-fi range.
Love you and Happy Mother’s Day!

A Bengali Mother’s Day | May 12, 2014

Today was Mother’s Day – my first without my mom.  But God knew and allowed me to be in this amazing place on this day.  We woke to a beautiful breakfast buffet – nothing spicy!  I thoroughly enjoyed myself and we all filled up on coffee to help us with our jet lag.  Everyone seems to be doing well, though, and have made the switch from night to day or whatever 13 hours difference does to you!

After breakfast we walked the block or so to WV headquarters to join them in their morning devotions.  All the women were greeted with a small spray of flowers which is the custom here.  It is such a lovely treat but then we have no water for the poor things, so they quickly fade.  The morning was wonderful – the women had planned it and it was a celebration of Mother’s Day – songs, history, personal stories, and several stories about mothers from the Bible.  It was such a blessing of a time and we mothers felt very honored. It was also a delight to the eyes – the clothing is so colorful and beautiful and these women, with their beautiful tan skin, carry it off so well.  I kept seeing Attie and knowing she would fit in here so well.  It is fun to show her picture to people and have them smile in recognition of a “related” person.

After the service and some meeting and greeting, we had a security clearance briefly – normal protocol.  The man giving it was former military and very good.  We did chuckle a bit (later!) about the bit of advice we were given about accidents.  We watched a short video of a 2 bus crash, where one tipped over and s small green auto rickshaw just raced between them.  Then people started pouring out of the windows!  In an accident, the people involved are to blame and if you remain on site, the crowds may punish you!  We are not worried!

The loveliest thing to hear, though, was that WV is so honored and respected here, just being with them will protect us.  Isn’t that great?  We also met with some staff and Susan was able to present a letter from church staff and two beautiful wooden crosses.
Then came the highlight of my day!   We went to meet Bristy, my little 7 year old sponsored child.  Our first day in Dhaka, I had been impressed with how comparatively clean the area was and so little signs of the abject  poverty seen so much elsewhere.  There were many trees and plants.  However, today as we drove to see Bristy the all too familiar face of poverty appeared – tiny shacks along the road, home to many, tiny shops, narrow roads, life on the streets.  We drove into a tiny lane and walked along a row of shacks right up against each other.  Just a short way in, was my girl!  She is a beautiful very bright child and I have so loved getting to know her through letters and pictures.  She has always had questions and comments so I felt like I knew her a bit.  She was not shy and also greeted us all with flowers and I got a big hug!  Such joy!  I shared family pictures with her, especially the grands, as she had asked to know more about them.  Then I gave her the contents of a little backpack I brought for her – the hair bands and ribbons were the biggest hits.  We met her mother, little sister, and father.  The father works in a salon cutting men’s hair.
Although I was absolutely delighted to see Bristy, her living conditions were sobering.  Their “home” is about 4 meters square – the one bed and a small cupboard just about fill the space.  The father makes about $38 a month – 30 of which go toward rent.  It is unimaginable to think of surviving on this.  But these amazing people were warm and so welcoming and had such grace and dignity and gave us flowers.

We then all packed up and went back to the ADP office and had lunch together.  I know this was a feast to them and I was so glad we could share it.  Bristy’s little sister had been shy but she warmed up quickly, especially when Leslie brought out her phone and started sharing pictures!  The mom told me some stories about Bristy and how well she is doing in school.  Sponsorship makes school possible for her.   And she dreams – she wants to be a doctor.  Oh dear Lord – may that be!  I am praying for her and guidance in what can be done.  Later in the day, I talked with the sponsorship coordinator and began some thinking and planning. That is one of the huge privileges of visiting one’s sponsored child.  You get to see the reality of her life and circumstances.
On the way back to their home, we stopped to get some grocery supplies for the family, which is always such a privilege to do.  Farewells were hard but the blessing was huge and she is now forever a part of me.

If that was my highlight,the next part was the gift!  Matt and Shelbi also sponsor a child here – a little boy who was chosen because he rather looks like a black haired, brown skinned Isaac!  I had not thought I would be able to see him but with permission, I did tell George about him as Rabbi, the little boy, lives here in Dhaka.  Well, I think George would cut off his arm if he felt we needed it, so a quick visit was arranged.  Normally, these visits take many days, if not weeks to set up, and George did it in less than a day!  We stopped briefly at that ADP office and met the director – a courtesy and a privilege.  She is an amazing woman doing great work while caring for a disabled husband.  We were blessed to pray with her.

Then on to Rabbi!  In a better area, I climbed some steps and was met at the top by this darling little boy!  He, too, was not shy and received my hugs quite cheerfully.  I showed him pictures on my iPad of his family in the US.  They had sent a package for him so we happily went through that.  The shirt and shorts were nice but the little cars were the big hit!  His little sister was also there so I got to meet her as well.  His parents were working so his auntie cares for them.  I was also able to leave a bag of supplies for his family as well.

It was by needs a short visit but such an unexpected blessing!  Special thanks to my team who basically got to follow me around on my great adventure.

Back to the hotel for dinner with some staff.

A note on traffic – it is the British style so we keep left – lanes are suggestions only and traffic lights are still being adjusted to so the traffic police are the real authority – some comfort as we seemed to go through a number of red lights!  It is every man for himself and the rickshaws and pedestrians somehow go through the mash unscathed – at least as far as we have seen!  Large colorful buses pass within inches but somehow we all get where we are going.

Dinner was a great opportunity to learn more and have some personal time with some of the staff. – very good conversations.
The day was full, as was my heart.  We took our weary selves off to bed.
Tomorrow will take us out of Dhaka.

Thank you for your love and prayers.  They mean so much and we are all so very well.

Into The Field | May 13, 2014

Today we started a little earlier as we were headed out of the city.  Another great buffet breakfast and then off to the airport.  We boarded a small domestic plane to fly to Jessore, southwest of Dhaka.  What a breeze that was, especially for me.  I was the first one out of the van, after George, and he indicated the door.   So I just waltzed in, put my carry-ons on the conveyor belt and sailed through.  Then I heard my name called – I had left my big heavy suitcase in the van and so someone else had to take it for me!   I am now the obnoxious “queen” of the trip.  Later in the day, Bonnie left a bag and said that she had done a Jill!  Such a great claim to fame!

Anyway, security was so simple and then we walked out to our plane.  The flight was only about 45 minutes and we were on the ground.

We were met by WV staff with these gorgeous bouquets of red flowers and greenery.  It is such a shame we can’t save them a bit.  Bonnie got a photo of us holding our flowers, feeling like bridesmaids!  At least we women did.  I’m not sure how Alan and Todd felt!
We hopped into another van and drove over 2 hours to Khluna, further south.  The drive was one of the loveliest ever – very green and lush.  We passed harvested rice fields, fish ponds, little villages of huts, brick kilns.  There was the occasional Hindu or Muslim temple – one especially ancient.  We stopped for a couple photo stops – one of people washing clothes on the shore of a river – the long pieces of colorful fabric drifting out into the water.  At another stop people were literally hacking out a roadway with small hoes – men and women in that brutal heat, all for about 25 cents for a 6 hour work day.  But far from resenting our interest,, they smiled and waved.  And then we hop back into our air-conditioned van and drove on.  Ouch.  I don’t know what to do with that.  These are the things that make my American life not quite fit anymore.

We also had a fun stop for some green coconut milk, straight from the coconut.  A man hacked off one end until there was a small hole and in went a straw.  Very refreshing.

We are quite the novelty wherever we go.  A number of men gathered to look and talk a little.  Note:  we mostly see men out in public. On the plane, for example, I only saw one woman traveler other than us.  In the city, more women are out but still are definitely in the minority.

About midday we arrive in Khulna and our hotel.  It is quite nice but a little more basic which actually feels a bit better.  Susan and I are still rooming together, which is such a treat.  We laugh a lot as tiredness makes for some silliness – like trying to use toothpaste instead of lotion.

We had lunch at the hotel which had a varied menu so plenty to eat for the spice adverse.

Then we headed over to the district office for meetings and briefings. We met at the Child Safety Net Project office.  This program is on the front lines of child protection in this area.  They have already positively impacted the lives of over one million people, many of them children.  They run prevention programs, peer mentoring, education events, rescue and restoration of victims and much more.

These are such a dedicated group of people with real passion for their work.  So many WV staff could have much higher paying jobs in the private sector but choose to work here.  Many have several advanced degrees and there are more than a few folks with doctorates – PhD, MD, or law.

Today the weather became a little more of a factor as we were outside more and then the building was quite warm despite some air conditioning.  That is not a complaint!  Just context.  During our meeting we saw some short awareness videos that WV has produced for use here – well done with tiny shades of Bollywood.  We have copies so plan to use them at home.  After a quick trip to a market for candy for tomorrow we headed back to the office for supper.  They had prepared us a lovely Bengali meal.  Typical dishes are dal, a lentil based dish, fish, shrimp, curry dishes, many types of rice.  The kindness and generousity are such a gift.  We also learned that we Westerners eat at a ridiculously early hour. Typically, the evening meal here is between 8 and 10.  Alan and I enjoyed a great conversation with one of our hosts, a lovely young woman named Risha.  The talk ranged from the work here to fashion!  Very fun.

It had felt like such a full day to all of us and I think jet lag is catching up a bit, we made an early night of it and Sus and I were in bed by 8.

Next day will be good and hard as we go to our first child friendly space by a brothel, meet a survivor, and see more sponsored children.

Namaste.

Beauty | May 14, 2014

Tuesday was such a day of incredible beauty and rending experiences.

We all started the day pumped and ready but, as we had collapsed early the night before, most of us had been up since 3 or 4! However, coffee and the thrill of being here kept us going.

After breakfast, we boarded our van and headed south to Mongla, a town and area close to the coast and divided by rivers and streams.  Like the day before, the drive was lush and green, with many wetlands, fish ponds, and rivers.

We arrived at a large area of buses and tiny shops – a place to catch the boats that took one across the river.  Now do not think Greyhound bus station.  These were the senior citizens of the bus fleet  but multi-colored and bright.  The area was unpaved and the shops are open huts selling snacks and fruit.

We marched down to the shoreline, across a wooden dock, minding our steps as construction was loose and the occasional board was missing.  We climbed into small low boats and stood, feet spread out for balance, as we crossed to a larger boat which couldn’t get as close to shore.  This boat was two level so we all climbed up to the top and watched the vibrant river life as we crossed.  This is sea water so George told us to watch for dolphins! and, sure enough, just after he said that, a dolphin swam by!  We saw a number in our crossing.  It was fabulous.  There were many small boats plying their various trades and larger container ships as fish and shrimp are exported from this area.  Look for Bangledeshi fish in your local market!

The day was HOT! but on the boat, with the breeze, it was great.  Soon, we approached a spit of land with many tiny huts on it.  George pointed out the metal roof of the Child Friendly Space.  Most of these huts are home to at least one sex worker – 140 of them all crammed together on this narrow strip of land, surrounded by water.  It is a beautiful location where such ugliness lives.  But again, we were greeted by warmth and smiles and cheers from the children.

Quick note:  the CFS are places set up by WV for the children of the brothel to come each day and be cared for, taught, fed, and loved.  That was our first stop after we climbed out of the boat via a couple of chairs!  The children are ages 3-5 and dressed in bright orange uniforms.  The room is cheerful and full of posters and pictures.

We were greeted with cheers and beautiful flowers.  We met some of the mothers and the women who teach and care for the women.  Mini, an older woman, once a sex worker and madam, who now helps the children, and I hit it off.  It was fun to walk with her along the dike area and “talk.”  She was so warm and affectionate and so glad that we had come.  She admired my earrings so I resolve to leave them for her at the end of the trip.

In the CFS, the children sang and danced for us – then Leslie, our Gymboree expert, shared some motion songs and games with the children.  She had also brought a parachute to play with so that was a big hit and then Bubbles!  The well behaved room erupted as they chased the tiny bubbles.  After we passed out some candy, we had to reluctantly leave.

Back on the boat, the thoughts of what we had just seen hit.  Only God knows the answer to all of this and it is only found in him but being merely human, my heart cries out for an immediate solution.  I know the Lord’s heart breaks as well and he has called us to help.

Back on shore, we then loaded into several easy bikes to continue.  These are little motorized vehicles run on battery power – very efficient but pretty slow.  The roads had become quite narrow and regular vehicles really couldn’t make it through.  So began this amazing ride through narrow lanes, past the street life and shops, tiny homes, and through the lush green landscape.  This area is so beautiful and would be a much desired tourist spot if there was the infrastructure.  Also the heat might be an issue!  As we were outside so much of today, we got the full experience!  Even the locals are calling this a heat wave.  We women are really appreciating the value of our scarves – wipe sweat, hands.  Whatever!

We drove along for a while until we reached the little grocery shop of Beauty, a stunningly beautiful young woman who WV has being helping to adjust after she was trafficked.  Her story is too long to share here, but it is one of great suffering and also the overcoming of it.  It is the all familiar story of trafficking but it is also the story of the one.

When she was rescued, she was pregnant.  She wanted to abort the baby but George fought for the baby’s life and today there is a gorgeous 5 month old little girl with some hope for her future.  It was a blessing to buy supplies for sponsored children from her and to see her home, which is clean and relatively spacious.

Back into our easy rides to the ADP office where LuAnn and Bonnie were meeting their sponsored little girls.  Most ADP offices are in a building somewhere.  However, this one is a compound with beautiful trees and flowering shrubs and a small pond in the middle for drinking water.  It looked like a lovely swimming pool!  Such a lovely spot.  We were greeted by 6 beautifully dressed little girls who sang and danced a greeting for us.  And more flowers!  Such a blessing!

After the joyful greetings with the children and their moms, we all shared lunch together. Then Bonnie had a tie dye project for them. So fun!  Everyone really got into it and even George did two little backpacks for his daughters!

A quick note on George – he is one of the most delightful men I’ve ever met.  He would do anything for us and often does.  When we were joking about kidnapping (mentioned in the security briefing) he said attempt would have to go through him!  Today, he really seemed to relax with us and his humor came out. Teasing and joking with us!  He is just a joy to be around.  After lunch we split into two groups to visit the girls’ homes.  Back on the carts and off for warm visits.  I went with LuAnn and her little girl lives in a government back housing area right on the river.  It would be prime property for us!  Although the places are still very basic, there is electricity thanks to solar panels WV installed last year.

Then we headed back, crossed another narrow river in a boat, and found the oh so beautiful WV air-conditioned van!
We had all hoped to shower before dinner at the hotel but we were running a little late and had a group waiting for us.

I will end this for now.  More later but must run.

Love to all

Fish, Heat, and Incredible Young People | May 15, 2014

Starting where I stopped last evening –

We arrived back at our hotel, hot, sweaty and late so we sat down to dinner with the Pressure Group.  This is a group that partners with WV.  Their purpose is to put pressure on the government to either pass laws or enforce the existing ones which deal with trafficking.  There was a social worker, a prosecuting attorney, a journalist, and a freedom fighter.  Yes, the only man in the group identifies himself as a freedom fighter as he fought in the war for Bangladeshi freedom from Pakistan.  It still defines his life but he now fights for justice.  They were an interesting group and it was good to hear from them a bit.  However, we were a pretty pooped group so it was not a long evening.  Off to bed and some good sleep.

The next morning we got going a little earlier as we first visited the local fish market.  It begins at dawn as the local fishermen bring in their night’s catch and sell it to local buyers.  It is right on the waterfront and is noisy, wet, and moderately smelly.  To earn much needed extra money for their families, young boys ages 11 and up come and haul buckets of fish on their heads from place to place for pennies.  The boys are not treated well and those who continue this for years, often have their growth stunted due to the heavy weight of the buckets. There were so many of them who came to see us, crowded around, often with smiles, but in ragged shirts and pants and bare feet.  As a mother and grandmother of many boys, I found this place very hard.  Each boy there could have been mine, living a life of such limited opportunity and such hardship.

After walking through the market for a bit, George took us to visit 5 market boys at their homes.  Some of the boys are still in school, after they haul fish in the morning.  Their homes are so small but generally clean and their parents care for them but are just so desperately poor.  These boys have been in WV’s Life Skills class which teaches the obvious!  There is hope that some will continue school and all will learn skills that will lead them to better lives.  One sweet mom sells fabric so we were so happy to place some orders from her.  The fabrics over here are SO beautiful!  It was a privilege to meet these boys and their families.  Some have hopes and dreams but one boy seemed so resigned to his life.  What has he experienced in his young life?

We left there and went to visit a Life Skills class for young girls.  These classes are for kids aged 12 – 18.  There were 20 girls there who greeted us so warmly – the hallmark of almost every interaction we have here.  There is such variety in these precious girls’s lives.  One girl shared about her day – getting up at 7:30 to get ready for school, school much of the day, home to study and receive help from a tutor. Then supper and time with friends.  She sounded like any of the young people we know.  Then another girl shared her typical day – up at 4 to get ready for a day at the fish packing plant.  Often a 12 hour day with her hands in icy water, slicing off heads and gutting the fish.  When her hands became clumsy with the cold, the knife would slip sometimes and cut her.  There is no first aid so she had to manage as well as she could.  A lunch break only fit in if there was time.  The contrast is so painful.  Out of the 20 girls there, only 6 are in school.  But we went around the room and asked each girl her dreams – teacher, doctor, journalist, police officer.  Oh dear Lord, may they see these dreams come to be.  One stunningly beautiful girl danced for us.

As we sat on the floor with them, I looked at each face – so lovely and young and wanting to hope. The people here, especially so many of the women, are just heartbreakingly beautiful.  We shared some stories with them and listened to theirs and then had to reluctantly head to the Divisional Office for lunch.  There, we were given another briefing on their work.  The building was quite hot as the power went in and out and today it did begin to get to me.  Fortunately we are provided with water at every turn so that is such a gift.  We also have snacks in the van so Pringles have become an important salt supplement for us!

After lunch we went to another Child Friendly Space.  These are primarily children of fish market workers so different life experience for them.  Again, there was the flower greeting and dances and songs.  We also went into our shtick and had so much fun with them. I got to lead the hokey-pokey so my visit is complete!

Off we went again – so many hellos and goodbyes.  I want to memorize each face.  Fortunately, our team photographer, Bonnie, has been doing an amazing job and there will be pictures galore!

Our next visit was to a team of 5 young people who comprise a Child’s Forum.  These are sponsored young people WV has brought together to teach and empower over their rights as children.  There were 5 – one boy and 4 girls, most in their mid-teens.  What an incredible group of young people!  I was just blown away by their maturity, their passion, their dedication.  They mentor their peers about life skills, protection from traffickers, and goals for their community.  When there was a local fire, they raised funds for food and replaced school books that were lost. The oldest girl, 18, was invited to Tanzania last fall for the WV Tri-annual conference which just shows the value placed on young people.  The local WV contact for them was just bursting with pride over these kids. They were phenomenal!  Another too short visit and reluctant goodbye.

Our final stop was in a slum area for a street drama about trafficking.  Here, like in the fish market, were the ragged clothes and signs of the most extreme poverty.  The drama team is hired by WV to present these programs.  A large crowd gathered about the canopy and we were given seats right up by the performers.  The crowd pressed in and I struggled a bit against claustrophobia and extreme heat.  The drama was very well done with a little humor but also the message.  It told the story of scheming traffickers who lured girls by promises of planned marriages or jobs and young children with candy and by pretending to be distant relatives.
Of course, in this story, it all ended well but the story was clear and people responded well.

We had then planned to visit the slum area but it was getting dark so we headed back to the hotel.  We were not meeting with anyone for dinner so that frankly was a blessed relief.  We had time to shower and peel off the soaked and disgusting clothes of the day and go to supper refreshed and just being us.

Note on the team:  I have traveled with such wonderful people in the past but this entire team is comprised of people I know very well and a few of my dearest friends.  As we are dealing with such difficult things, it is the greatest blessing to have these friends around.  There is much encouragement and support as we hit low points.

After some sweet conversation and laughter too, we headed up for our last night’s sleep in Khulna.

Good night dear ones.

Home From the Rivers and Hills | May 17, 2014

We are home. There is still so much to tell about the trip and much reflecting to be done so posts will continue throughout this week. Just wanted you to know we are safe and well.
We would appreciate your continued prayers as we adjust to being home and to figuring out who we are now. We are not the same people who left Portland just a very short time ago. We have seen God at work in the darkest of places and in the sweetest of faces.
Thank you for being with us.

“Let My Heart Be Broken By the Things That Break the Break the Heart of God” | May 18, 2014

About Thursday – May 15

Off to an early start again for our last day in the Khulna area. We had slept well, packed up, and enjoyed breakfast – my favorite meal of the day. As we had not had a chance to go to the Rupsha slums the night before, George took us there briefly, before we drove back to Jessore.  We drove a short distance over broken and dirt roads and stopped by the river.  My first thought was that we were just driving by and I sighed a bit internally when I realized we were getting out to walk around again.  Oh – what I would have missed if I’d stayed put.  People gathered as we walked back into this warren of shacks, small cooking fires, and smells.  But we walked with people – the old with weary faces and rotten teeth, the young with clear beautiful faces, the adults, burdened with life but all sharing themselves with these white prosperous strangers.  Sharing their smiles, their warmth, their generousity of spirit.  We held babies and hugged old women.  Leslie even got to help roll out some flat bread for the day.  And we prayed. One older woman attached herself to me and I received the blessing of her presence as we walked together arm in arm.  She proudly pointed out her house as we walked by.  It was holy ground.

We left so reluctantly.  The visit had been so brief.  Its impact is forever.  We began that day broken but blessed – and held by God as He wept with us. We were even reluctant to use our hand sanitizer – it meant erasing some of the touches.
That would have been enough for one day as our drive continued rather quietly for awhile.  But God wanted us to see more.
We continued our uneventful drive through that beautiful country until we arrived in Jessore – the city we would fly out of that evening. When we arrived, we drove directly to the Jessore brothel and Child Friendly Space. This was so different from the brothel area we had visited 2 days before. The earlier one had been on the water – much more open and even the children there had seemed happier and less stressed. This brothel is in the heart of the city – close by a Hindu temple and the local police station. There are shops which sell betal leaves, drugs, cigarettes, alcohol – things that were not much in evidence elsewhere. Our first stop was the CFS. It meets in another charmingly decorated room one level up from the street. This room is leased from the area sex workers. They are a business and almost run like a union here. The matter of factness of it all is appalling.
The children were sweet and excited to see us but we could see the effects of their lives more clearer on them than the other two groups we had visited. One little guy is definitely mentally disabled, but he is treated well and with compassion. We received flowers and pictures they had drawn for us. Here, again, we played with them and a few recited poems for us – Twinkle, Twinkle Little Star. Then some songs and dances. Again we heard, “We Shall Overcome” sung. That song has become one of the symbols of this trip.
Some of the moms were there too, visiting with their children. One little girl had some deformed fingers, caused from a poison her mom had taken to abort her. Thankfully, that is the extent of her injury but such are the realities of the desperate life here.
One of the moms, Moyna, invited us to go with her to the brothel so we did and stepped into hell. We walked through a long passage that opened out into an open area for cooking and gathering. The rooms are on two levels. Because of George’s work and that of other WV staff here, they are welcome in the brothel and greeted the women by name. The women are treated as individuals with stories and faces – with dignity and respect. Efforts are made to assist any woman who wishes to get out. The reasons why they are not all rushing to the door are too long and involved to explain fully. Suffice it to say, women can make more money here than in many other jobs. One woman’s oldest child is at university and her other two are in school. The sacrifices made for the children. Some of the women cover their faces with a white make up to look lighter. As in so many places in the world, lighter skin is thought to be more attractive – more highly valued. What a travesty! My reaction to all I was seeing, feeling, smelling was intense anger. I wanted to lash out at the men I saw there, at the madams, but I think my anger was misplaced and almost a defense mechanism for the overwhelming sorrow that lay underneath the surface. All these people are dearly loved by God although he hates what they do. What to do with all that? I am not God.
We left – heartsick.
George knew what we were feeling and was able to share some stories of redemption and of Moyna, who wants to get out, along with her 3 year old daughter. She is also pregnant again and does not want her children to grow up in the brothels. The hope may be only like a small candle flame in the darkness but what a light it sheds.

And She Danced | May 20, 2014

Thursday ongoing – after leaving the brothel, we drove to the border town of Benapole.  There we met with a local advocacy group which works to combat the trafficking at the border here with India.  It was a large group of journalists, teachers, local officers of various stripe.  We listened and asked and answered questions.  After our earlier time, we were all a bit numb, I think.

Then George had arranged with an acquaintance to show us how easy it is for people to cross the border undetected.  We first went to the official crossing and were able to step across the official line into India.  Then this journalist took us over to a path that follows the border – just marked by a very flimsy fence.  Obviously, this is not a secure border so trafficking people is easy.  This was a short quick visit and something that felt lighter by comparison. And we got to go to India!
Then we had some lunch back at the Child Safety Net Program office – Yes!!!  All of this had been before lunch so if we look shell-shocked in the pictures, that may be a part of it.
After lunch, we had a time of debriefing with the staff – again, I could write sheets about the excellence of the WV staff! One of the young men who works in this office now was once a sponsored child! That was a wonderful story to hear. I haven’t mentioned Provash. He is the program director and former attorney. He was with us during all our time in this part of the country. He, like George, has such a passion for what he does – such a caring heart – and such great skills he uses for the Lord. It was such a privilege to get to know him and be with him for those few days. After our time of sharing, we were presented with some gifts for our time! As if just being there and with these people was not gift enough.
Before we headed to the airport, we made one last stop at a shelter for rescued children. It is set in a lovely more rural area and seemed very secure. We had to sign a document which basically promised that we would not do anything to upset these kids!
First, we met with 3 survivors. All of them are teenagers and one is pregnant. Again, George gets the credit for saving this baby’s life. Our conversation stayed around their hopes, dreams and plans as we had to stay away from their actual experiences but George filled us in some privately. One of the girls had been trafficked to Mumbai – an awful hub for trafficked girls. Although, beaten and abused, this courageous young lady escaped and by the grace of God found someone who actually helped her. Too often a girl is “rescued” and then resold back to the brothel! This girl then made her way to the shelter and has been here some months. Tears are still close to the surface though, as one of the staff talked with her.
Before we left, we went outside and two of the girls, in their beautiful clothes, including this young lady, danced for us.
We watched in awe as this precious girl, with visible scars on her body and invisible wounds in her soul, swayed and moved with such grace. It was a dance of hope.
Back to the van and off to the airport for the short hop back to Dhaka. We were a little behind on time and George was calling the airlines rather insistently. The flight was pushed back! At first we thought George had pulled another miracle out of his pocket but the reality was the US Ambassador was traveling and the plane needed to wait for him. Anyway, we benefited. On the way to the airport, George pointed out a good shopping spot and we joked about stopping there. Poor Provash was sitting behind me and I think he thought we were serious. I heard him mutter, “Oh no, no, no!” I think he was afraid he would be stuck with us for another day!
But we made the flight with no problems – sailed through security, such as it is. I carried my own bag this time! Back to our lovely hotel in Dhaka – cleaned up, unpacked a bit and then had a good supper together – just us. Our hearts were full and tomorrow was our last day.

Final Thoughts | May 21, 2014

Friday, May 16 – Our last day in Dhaka and Bangladesh – a very bittersweet time.  Some of us had begun to turn our thoughts to home and others were a little reluctant to leave and take up our Western life again.  Our culture has so much that is good but we pay a high price for it in relationships and meaningful goals.

We actually got to sleep in a bit this morning, begin the packing process, enjoy our last lovely breakfast at the hotel and then headed out to make our final contributions to the economy.  George took us first to a local craft store which raises funds for local craftspeople.  It was the place I think we had all been hoping to find!  At least we women! It didn’t look that imposing from the outside but then we walked into a lovely small room with all types of jewelry.  We quickly saw that other rooms beckoned off of that one and we wondered into room after room.  It was the perfect place for so much that we had hoped to find.  We spent some good time there and some good money.  It really had all that I had been hoping to get for family and myself.  I left with 3 bags! I covered all the grands there and several others, as well as adding a few things to my personal bag as well.  We had fun – it was a nice light time.

Then we briefly stopped at the market we had visited on our first day and got some odds and ends people still wanted to pick up.  We had lunch at a nice restaurant and then back to the hotel and time to pack all our purchases into our bags.  We were all packed into Bonnie’s room as she was staying one more day and we had already needed to check out.  The atmosphere was rather festive and silly as we all tried to sort and pack but we all managed it in the end.

Then we met at there at the hotel for a final debriefing early supper with staff.  It was so good to have some time with them all again and we all went around and shared about our time, and they shared their hopes for the future of WV in Bangladesh.  I know our visit meant a great deal to them as not many Westerners visit Bangladesh.  And we were so humbled and grateful for our time there and for all the effort that went into our visit.  It couldn’t have been better.  It was a rich time.

Too soon we had to gather all our bags and hop into our van for the final time and head out to the airport.  We were in plenty of time, got all of our bags checked through and settled down for a bit.  Our first leg of about 6 hours took us back to Dubai.  Due to a longer than 8 hour layover, the airline put us up for the night at a hotel.  However, it was a mixed blessing.  Unlike our trip out, where we had stayed at the airport itself, here we were staying off site.  We arrived in Dubai in the middle of the night, did not know where to go, had to stand in various lines to get out and finally found the shuttle to take us to the hotel.  We got some quick sleep but had to get up early to allow time for a quick breakfast, ride back to the airport, check back in through security, and finally get on our plane for Seattle!  We much preferred the airport hotel but lessons learned for the next team!  We expect their thanks.

Another 14 hours took us back to Seattle and then home.
It was good to see our families, especially as I was greeted by 2 of my grands, running up for hugs! But we were not the same people who had left Portland just a very short time before.  We had seen much and now wait on God to show us the way.