Tuesday April 21

This morning was amazing. We dressed for work today and drove outside of Bethlehem a fairly short distance. We drove through this beautiful hilly area with a Jewish settlement on each hilltop. In the middle of the five settlement hills, is another green terraced hill with just a couple of small buildings. It is owned by a Palestinian Christian family who have lived here for generations. They have started an organization called Tent of Nations. I had seen a video about it before I came and was excited to finally be here. The goal of this family is to hold camps and other activities for children of various faiths to come together and learn about each other. They are doing this while in the midst of a 20 year legal battle for their land. Fortunately they have legal documents going back to the Ottomans that show their ownership. But the gov’t would love this beautiful and strategic hill so there has been an ongoing battle to wrest the land away. The military blocked the main road with boulders, going into their home. About a year ago, the military came in and bulldozed 150 olive trees saying the ownership of the land was in question. Since then, volunteers have come in and planted over 300 trees. However it will be several years before they produce. Through this all, they have onto their goal – We Refuse to be Enemies.
When we arrived, we were met by one of the brothers, a gracious older man. He showed us around to the couple standing buildings, the volunteer tents, and the compost toilets built by a Jewish settler who got to know them and was convicted about the disparity in their circumstances.
Then we collected short-handled broad blade hoes and headed out to weed. Some of us tended grape vines and I, with others, weeded around some young blooming apple trees. The soft pink blossoms are always hopeful. In the dirt around one tree, I sprinkled a few of Paul’s ashes, grateful for him and that he is forever a tiny part of this place. We worked for almost two hours but it was cool enough and breezy enough that I really didn’t get hot. It was a little bit hard – I got blisters and opened one and had prickers in my hands from the thistles, but it felt so good and useful. Then we broke for lunch – a lovely homemade meal served outside on a patio overlooking the terraced valley. It was maybe our best meal and certainly our best location. It was such a privilege to be there.
After lunch, we headed to another town in the West Bank. You may have noted that I don’t use names in some places. This is intentional because of the sensitivity of the issues here. Anyway, this town was sobering. (My auto correct made it so wrong and that might be more correct!)
This is a town divided my numerous checkpoints, soldiers, and fences. We went through 3 checkpoints in our time there. We first visited a father, son, and their lawyer to learn about child detention. Children under 18 are often fetched in the middle of the night by the military. They are taken away and not charged. They can’t see their parents initially. This particular boy was kept for 8 days. Defense for Children International, a legal organization, intervened. There are 500-700 arrests a year. This is life here.
In this town, there are about 500 Jews and 30,000 Palestinians. There are about 1500-2000 Israeli soldiers here to protect the Jews. The Jewish communities are completely cut off from the rest of the city. It is an armed camp.
We visited an ancient mosque and then a shop funded by one of our group. Then we needed to walk back to our bus. The Palestinians with us had to go another way as they were not allowed through our checkpoint. We have had to show passports a couple of times and our bus has been boarded twice. Once through, we caught our bus and headed back to Bethlehem.
Quite a day!
But it wasn’t over. We stopped for tea and dessert with friends of our group leader. They are a fascinating Palestinian family – well off, highly educated, and seeking to do good. The elderly father is a very gracious and welcoming man who shared some of his story. But he told us he had been press secretary for Quadaffi a number of years ago so what does one make of that? So confusing.
Our final dinner together was at another great restaurant and a classic Middle Eastern meal. Daoud Hassan and his wife, from Tent of Nations, joined us for a bit. He had been in court all day fighting the latest battle for his land. The conversation continues. His wife was sitting by me so we had a good talk.
Back to our hotel to pack up. Next morning will be our final big group day.
Each day has been so packed, I have not even begun to process it all! Full heart and brain. I realize I keep tossing out these incredible statements rather cavalierly but this is what I am seeing and hearing! What to do with it all?
Tomorrow – the Sea of Galilee. Hopefully a bit of a break. Walking with Jesus.