What a lovely morning – in Bethlehem for Sunday! Pinch me!
We also had the great blessing of sleeping in some this morning so no set alarm! Eleanor, my roomie, and I woke up about 7:30. It was lovely.
I showered, got ready, ate, and then headed to the mezzanine. It is this quiet area of seats (and the bar for wine at night) so I hide there a bit. I love the women I am traveling with, but I also need some down time and no conversation so this spot is perfect. I put on some music and wrote. The songs really touched me on this Sunday morning.
After devotions, we went to a Christian church for the service. For those of you who have worshipped in Africa you will appreciate that we had regular chairs. Very comfortable. We also had headsets for translation which was so helpful.
The music was lively but all in Arabic and none of the songs were familiar to us. It was still just a privilege to sit and listen and watch this gathering of believers from different races joined by their love of Christ. The music continued for a good while and then the pastor came up. It is interesting to listen to the themes expressed over here. There is much talk about the love of Christ, the need for forgiveness, the desire for justice and freedom. They also understand more of what Jesus preached as they, too, are a group of people under occupation.
We had to leave a little early to make our lunch appt so it was a little disappointing not to get to mingle a little but small price. Another good restaurant, right by the Church of the Nativity, fed us well. A couple of women who have friends here met up with them there.
After lunch, we had a little free time so a few of us just sat in the square and enjoyed some cappuccinos. We still had a little time to shop and a number of us descended on this bracelet store! We are quite a force when we come into a particular shop. This one had these special olive wood bracelets. I abstained!
Back on the bus and off to Yadva Shem – the Holocaust Museum. I knew we were going and had been rather dreading it. But pulling in, the grounds are beautiful and it was a glorious sunny day. (The weather has been delightful – sunny and clear but not at all hot. A gift).
We met up with our guide – a very well informed classic Jewish woman. We started outside in an avenue of trees where non-Jewish people who saved Jews during the Holocaust are remembered. They are called the Righteous Among the Nations. Trees are planted and there is a plaque by each tree with a person’s name on it. Our guide shared a couple of stories – moving. Then we walked into the outdoor Children’s Memorial to commemorate the children who died. It is a quiet and peaceful place and a very fitting tribute.
Then we entered the museum proper. The architecture is very interesting – two walls rising from the base to create a triangle shape but extending, at one end, out over a valley. Our guide was very passionate about the material and shared well. She also got us through the large crowds very effectively! We were with her about two and a half hours, but it still felt like we flew through there as there are so many things to read and see. Of course, it is all deeply moving and disturbing, but I really know the stories and the horrors so there were no new nightmares, thankfully. There were several groups of Israeli young women in uniform visiting that day. As part of their military training, they are required to visit the museum. They looked so terribly young but are certainly in high school and maybe even graduates. They are learning their heritage so it will inform their lives and is their stated reason for serving in the military.
Our guide shared many stories but also her opinions and the great need for Israel to be constantly vigilant so this does not happen again. That seems to be constantly in the minds of the Israelis and so explains all the precautions taken. They are potentially only a generation away from another Holocaust. It was deeply moving and sorrowful, but again I felt, like I had in the Palestinian village, a bit emotionally played. At least it is on both sides!
This took our afternoon and we then went to a religious center to have supper and support their work. A Jewish man joined us for dinner. He is American by birth, very well educated, and articulate. He has served in the military and his sons will serve soon and is very proud of being an Israeli. But he is also deeply concerned for the Palestinians and works with an organization that seeks to address the injustices. He is a very interesting mix of perspectives and helped me, at least to understand the rationale, if not a good reason, for some of Israel’s actions – like the settlements. He also talked about the cost of living here, working for change, when he could have a very comfortable life in the U.S. I appreciated him very much and could have listened much longer. But poor man, we didn’t even give him a chance to eat his dinner! He had to take it home with him.
Back to the hotel and soon to bed. I am finding a spot on the mezzanine,each night, to write and am enjoying the quiet for a little bit.
This has been and continues to be just an incredible trip, but my thinking is really confused, and it is hard to know where the truth really lies. We have had some great conversations, wrestling with some of the issues. We do not all agree, but the discussion is thoughtful and honest. But it is like trying to find one’s way through a labyrinth. I head down one passage only to find it turns sharply and then dead ends. Back the way I came and head off another way, only to meet with more confusion and fog! I am praying to find a way of hope.
Blessings all.